Chapter 21 Summary

The group secures a carriage to Bergamo with a curious, energetic driver. Before taking off, the driver picks up a cigar stub from the ground and puts it in his mouth. He sucks on it for about an hour before Twain offers his own cigar as a way for the driver to light his. But instead of lighting the cigar, the driver pockets the stub and starts to smoke Twain's. They enter the scene of small village life in Italy, where roads are small, people are humble, and chickens roam around freely. Everywhere the travelers look, Jesus Christ is depicted, in paintings and on crucifixes. Twain describes these displays as grotesque, something that might scare children.

At one of the many ancient fortresses, the carriage driver tells them the legend of Count Luigi Gennaro Guido Alphonso di Genova (to which, Dan expresses the...