Chapters 4-6 Summary and Analysis

In Chapter 4, Mark Twain offers a poetic account of the Ajax's first sighting of the islands Oahu and Molokai. The Ajax raises the Hawaiian and American flags, both identifying its nationality and deferring to the local government. It's Sunday morning, so the steamer is welcomed by church bells. There are now six churches within five miles of an ancient pagan temple.

The ship is welcomed at the pier by several hundred people, roughly half of which are "half-naked" Hawaiians wearing some sort of native dress. Twain pays particular attention to the "very pretty" native women, who ride their horses "astraddle." He is, however, disappointed to see that the King himself is not in attendance.

Twain, ten days unshaven, visits a barber. Afterward, wandering the streets of Honolulu, Twain notes the absence of the creaking ship beneath him; walking on...