Official Colors. From the Tang (618-907) to Song (960-1279) dynasties purple, scarlet, green, and blue were kept exclusively for use by officials with rank, while all others were prohibited from using them. In 674 the emperor issued a decree to enforce this policy because many unauthorized people were wearing these colors under their outer garments. In the early Tang period officials without rank and commoners were permitted to wear only yellow and white; in later years ordinary folk were permitted to wear black. In Ming times (1368-1644) males were allowed to wear garments of various colors except yellow. Females were permitted to wear purple, green, peach, and other light colors, except scarlet, blue black, or yellow. Their formal clothing might be dyed purple.

Lower Classes. Customarily regarded as inferior to commoners, merchants had the colors of their clothing regulated from...