During the first half of the nineteenth century dining out in a restaurant was a relatively new experience, with new rules of sociability. A writer for the 3 February 1839- issue of the Gazette des tribunaux wondered what would happen if a diner was unable to pay for his dinner:

As soon as you enter a restaurant, if your face inspires even the slightest confidence, there is the restaurateur ready to offer you his menu' s limitless pleasures. For you, his fires light, his turnspit turns, his wine cellar opens, and you— you sit calmly by, enjoying the products of so much bother, all of which are trustingly brought to you on silver plates. And then what happens? Just as you are beginning to digest your dinner, you suddenly notice (in truth or fiction) that you have forgotten your wallet! What...