But as soon as it was found that Shakespeare’s house had passed into foreign hands and was going to be carried across the ocean, England was stirred as no appeal from the custodians of the relic had ever stirred England before, and protests came flowing in—­and money, too, to stop the outrage.  Offers of repurchase were made—­offers of double the money that Mr. Barnum had paid for the house.  He handed the house back, but took only the sum which it had cost him—­but on the condition that an endowment sufficient for the future safeguarding and maintenance of the sacred relic should be raised.  This condition was fulfilled.

That was Barnum’s account of the episode; and to the end of his days he claimed with pride and satisfaction that not England, but America —­represented by him—­saved the birthplace of Shakespeare from destruction.

At 3 P.M., May 6th, the ship slowed down, off the land, and thoughtfully and cautiously picked her way into the snug harbor of Durban, South Africa.

CHAPTER LXV.

In statesmanship get the formalities right, never mind about the moralities. 
                                  —­Pudd’nhead Wilson’s New Calendar.

From diary: 

Royal Hotel.  Comfortable, good table, good service of natives and Madrasis.  Curious jumble of modern and ancient city and village, primitiveness and the other thing.  Electric bells, but they don’t ring.  Asked why they didn’t, the watchman in the office said he thought they must be out of order; he thought so because some of them rang, but most of them didn’t.  Wouldn’t it be a good idea to put them in order?  He hesitated—­like one who isn’t quite sure—­then conceded the point.

May 7.  A bang on the door at 6.  Did I want my boots cleaned?  Fifteen minutes later another bang.  Did we want coffee?  Fifteen later, bang again, my wife’s bath ready; 15 later, my bath ready.  Two other bangs; I forget what they were about.  Then lots of shouting back and forth, among the servants just as in an Indian hotel.

Evening.  At 4 P.M. it was unpleasantly warm.  Half-hour after sunset one needed a spring overcoat; by 8 a winter one.

Durban is a neat and clean town.  One notices that without having his attention called to it.

Rickshaws drawn by splendidly built black Zulus, so overflowing with strength, seemingly, that it is a pleasure, not a pain, to see them snatch a rickshaw along.  They smile and laugh and show their teeth—­a good-natured lot.  Not allowed to drink; 2s per hour for one person; 3s for two; 3d for a course—­one person.