CHAPTER LI.

Let me make the superstitions of a nation and I care not who makes its laws or its songs either. 
—­Pudd’nhead Wilson’s New Calendar.

Yes, the city of Benares is in effect just a big church, a religious hive, whose every cell is a temple, a shrine or a mosque, and whose every conceivable earthly and heavenly good is procurable under one roof, so to speak—­a sort of Army and Navy Stores, theologically stocked.

I will make out a little itinerary for the pilgrim; then you will see how handy the system is, how convenient, how comprehensive.  If you go to Benares with a serious desire to spiritually benefit yourself, you will find it valuable.  I got some of the facts from conversations with the Rev. Mr. Parker and the others from his Guide to Benares; they are therefore trustworthy.

1.  Purification.  At sunrise you must go down to the Ganges and bathe, pray, and drink some of the water.  This is for your general purification.

2.  Protection against Hunger.  Next, you must fortify yourself against the sorrowful earthly ill just named.  This you will do by worshiping for a moment in the Cow Temple.  By the door of it you will find an image of Ganesh, son of Shiva; it has the head of an elephant on a human body; its face and hands are of silver.  You will worship it a little, and pass on, into a covered veranda, where you will find devotees reciting from the sacred books, with the help of instructors.  In this place are groups of rude and dismal idols.  You may contribute something for their support; then pass into the temple, a grim and stenchy place, for it is populous with sacred cows and with beggars.  You will give something to the beggars, and “reverently kiss the tails” of such cows as pass along, for these cows are peculiarly holy, and this act of worship will secure you from hunger for the day.

3.  “The Poor Man’s Friend.”  You will next worship this god.  He is at the bottom of a stone cistern in the temple of Dalbhyeswar, under the shade of a noble peepul tree on the bluff overlooking the Ganges, so you must go back to the river.  The Poor Man’s Friend is the god of material prosperity in general, and the god of the rain in particular.  You will secure material prosperity, or both, by worshiping him.  He is Shiva, under a new alias, and he abides in the bottom of that cistern, in the form of a stone lingam.  You pour Ganges water over him, and in return for this homage you get the promised benefits.  If there is any delay about the rain, you must pour water in until the cistern is full; the rain will then be sure to come.

4.  Fever.  At the Kedar Ghat you will find a long flight of stone steps leading down to the river.  Half way down is a tank filled with sewage.  Drink as much of it as you want.  It is for fever.

5.  Smallpox.  Go straight from there to the central Ghat.  At its upstream end you will find a small whitewashed building, which is a temple sacred to Sitala, goddess of smallpox.  Her under-study is there —­a rude human figure behind a brass screen.  You will worship this for reasons to be furnished presently.