My heart was gay and happy,
               This was ever in my mind,
               There is better times a coming,
               And I hope some day to find
               Myself capable of composing,
               It was my heart’s delight
               To compose on a sentimental subject
               If it came in my mind just right.

—­["The Sentimental Song Book,” p. 49; theme, “The Author’s Early Life,” 19th stanza.]

Barroda.  Arrived at 7 this morning.  The dawn was just beginning to show.  It was forlorn to have to turn out in a strange place at such a time, and the blinking lights in the station made it seem night still.  But the gentlemen who had come to receive us were there with their servants, and they make quick work; there was no lost time.  We were soon outside and moving swiftly through the soft gray light, and presently were comfortably housed—­with more servants to help than we were used to, and with rather embarassingly important officials to direct them.  But it was custom; they spoke Ballarat English, their bearing was charming and hospitable, and so all went well.

Breakfast was a satisfaction.  Across the lawns was visible in the distance through the open window an Indian well, with two oxen tramping leisurely up and down long inclines, drawing water; and out of the stillness came the suffering screech of the machinery—­not quite musical, and yet soothingly melancholy and dreamy and reposeful—­a wail of lost spirits, one might imagine.  And commemorative and reminiscent, perhaps; for of course the Thugs used to throw people down that well when they were done with them.

After breakfast the day began, a sufficiently busy one.  We were driven by winding roads through a vast park, with noble forests of great trees, and with tangles and jungles of lovely growths of a humbler sort; and at one place three large gray apes came out and pranced across the road—­a good deal of a surprise and an unpleasant one, for such creatures belong in the menagerie, and they look artificial and out of place in a wilderness.

We came to the city, by and by, and drove all through it.  Intensely Indian, it was, and crumbly, and mouldering, and immemorially old, to all appearance.  And the houses—­oh, indescribably quaint and curious they were, with their fronts an elaborate lace-work of intricate and beautiful wood-carving, and now and then further adorned with rude pictures of elephants and princes and gods done in shouting colors; and all the ground floors along these cramped and narrow lanes occupied as shops —­shops unbelievably small and impossibly packed with merchantable rubbish, and with nine-tenths-naked natives squatting at their work of hammering, pounding, brazing, soldering, sewing, designing, cooking, measuring out grain, grinding it, repairing idols—­and then the swarm of ragged and noisy humanity under the horses’ feet and everywhere, and the pervading reek and fume and smell!  It was all wonderful and delightful.