After dinner I found in the billiard-room a resident whom I had known somewhere else in the world, and presently made, some new friends and drove with them out into the country to visit his Excellency the head of the State, who was occupying his country residence, to escape the rigors of the winter weather, I suppose, for it was on breezy high ground and much more comfortable than the lower regions, where the town is, and where the winter has full swing, and often sets a person’s hair afire when he takes off his hat to bow.  There is a noble and beautiful view of ocean and islands and castellated peaks from the governor’s high-placed house, and its immediate surroundings lie drowsing in that dreamy repose and serenity which are the charm of life in the Pacific Islands.

One of the new friends who went out there with me was a large man, and I had been admiring his size all the way.  I was still admiring it as he stood by the governor on the veranda, talking; then the Fijian butler stepped out there to announce tea, and dwarfed him.  Maybe he did not quite dwarf him, but at any rate the contrast was quite striking.  Perhaps that dark giant was a king in a condition of political suspension.  I think that in the talk there on the veranda it was said that in Fiji, as in the Sandwich Islands, native kings and chiefs are of much grander size and build than the commoners.  This man was clothed in flowing white vestments, and they were just the thing for him; they comported well with his great stature and his kingly port and dignity.  European clothes would have degraded him and made him commonplace.  I know that, because they do that with everybody that wears them.

It was said that the old-time devotion to chiefs and reverence for their persons still survive in the native commoner, and in great force.  The educated young gentleman who is chief of the tribe that live in the region about the capital dresses in the fashion of high-class European gentlemen, but even his clothes cannot damn him in the reverence of his people.  Their pride in his lofty rank and ancient lineage lives on, in spite of his lost authority and the evil magic of his tailor.  He has no need to defile himself with work, or trouble his heart with the sordid cares of life; the tribe will see to it that he shall not want, and that he shall hold up his head and live like a gentleman.  I had a glimpse of him down in the town.  Perhaps he is a descendant of the last king—­the king with the difficult name whose memory is preserved by a notable monument of cut-stone which one sees in the enclosure in the middle of the town.  Thakombau—­I remember, now; that is the name.  It is easier to preserve it on a granite block than in your head.

Fiji was ceded to England by this king in 1858.  One of the gentlemen present at the governor’s quoted a remark made by the king at the time of the session—­a neat retort, and with a touch of pathos in it, too.  The English Commissioner had offered a crumb of comfort to Thakombau by saying that the transfer of the kingdom to Great Britain was merely “a sort of hermit-crab formality, you know.”  “Yes,” said poor Thakombau, “but with this difference—­the crab moves into an unoccupied shell, but mine isn’t.”