After receiving and returning the visits of the principal whites, all habited in frocks and continuations of the blackest and heaviest broadcloth, we feasted with the excellent commandant, who was hospitality itself.  The mosquitoes soon roused us from any attempt at sleep, and we passed the night after a fashion which sometimes leads to red eyes and “hot coppers” in the morning.  I left early, for my companions had business at Calumbo; as they were no longer present to control the bearers, a race soft as putty, and I was not used to manage them, the gang became unbearable.  The soldier sent to keep them in order did his best with his “supple-jack,” and the consequence was that all bolted into the bush.  At Cavua two men were forcibly enlisted, but I preferred walking in.  When at home in the Red House (Mr. Hewett’s) the hammock men came complaining of my deserting them, and begging bakhshish.

It was another lesson to me—­the Gaboon had lately administered one—­that, however well you may know the negro generally, each tribe requires a specific study.  This, however, would not take long, and with a little knowledge of the language there would be no difficulty in following the footsteps of Joaquim Rodrigues Graca; letters would be required to the several commandants, the season of setting out should be in early Cacimbo (April), and the up march would take six months, with about four to return.  But, unless active measures are adopted, only the seaboard will remain to the Portuguese.  This is an exploration which I had kept “dark” for myself; but Captain von Homeyer has gained the day, and nothing remains for me but to give the gallant officer God speed.  After a short but exceedingly pleasant visit, I left the capital of Angola with regret.  All seemed anxious to further my views of travel; the authorities gave me the very best advice, and offered me introductions to all the district commandants, Sr.  Moses Abecasis, and Sr.  Francisco A. Flores, Sir Henry Huntley’s host, obliged me with recommendations to the most influential agents at Porto da Lenha on the Congo River.  Mr. Essex of St. Helena placed me in the hands of his compatriot, Mr. Scott, and Captain Hoskins, R.N., ended his kindness with ordering for me a passage on board H.M.  Steamship “Griffon,” an old acquaintance in the Gaboon River.  Briefly, I quitted Sao Paulo with the best wishes for one and all who had befriended me.

Chapter IV.

The Cruise along Shore—­the Granite Pillar of Kinsembo.

On August 22nd we left Loanda, and attacked the 180 miles separating it from the Congo mouth.  Steaming along shore we enjoyed the vanishing perspective of the escarpment disappearing in the misty distance.  The rivers Bengo, Dande, and Onze are denoted by densely wooded fissures breaking the natural sea-wall, and, as usual in West Africa, these lines are the favourite sites for settlements.  The Onze or the Lifune of Mazula Bay—­which the Hydrographic Chart (republished March 18, 1869) changes into “River Mazulo,” and makes the mouth of the “River Onzo”—­is chosen by Bowdich and writers of his day as the northern boundary of Angola, greatly to the disgust of the Portuguese, whose pretensions extend much farther north.  Volumes of daily smoke and