Chapter II.

The Departure.—­the Tornado.—­arrival at “The Bush.”

I set out early on March 19th, a day, at that time, to me the most melancholy in the year, but now regarded with philosophic indifference.  A parting visit to the gallant “Griffons,” who threw the slipper, in the shape of three hearty cheers and a “tiger,” wasted a whole morning.  It was 12.30 P.M. before the mission boat turned her head towards the southern bank, and her crew began to pull in the desultory manner of the undisciplined negro.

The morning had been clear but close, till a fine sea breeze set in unusually early.  “The doctor” seldom rises in the Gaboon before noon at this season; often he delays his visit till 2 P.M., and sometimes he does not appear at all.  On the other hand, he is fond of late hours.  Before we had progressed a mile, suspicious gatherings of slaty-blue cloud-heaps advanced from the north-east against the wind, with a steady and pertinacious speed, showing that mischief was meant.  The “cruel, crawling sea” began to rough, purr, and tumble; a heavy cross swell from the south-west dandled the up-torn mangrove twigs, as they floated past us down stream, and threatened to swamp the deeply laden and cranky old boat, which was far off letter A1 of Lloyd’s.  The oarsmen became sulky because they were not allowed to make sail, which, in case of a sudden squall, could not have been taken in under half an hour.  Patience!  Little can be done, on the first day, with these demi-semi-Europeanized Africans, except to succeed in the inevitable trial of strength.

The purple sky-ground backing the Gaboon’s upper course admirably set off all its features.  Upon the sea horizon, where the river measures some thirty miles across, I could distinctly see the junction of the two main branches, the true Olo’ Mpongwe, the main stream flowing from the Eastern Ghats, and the Rembwe (Ramboue) or south-eastern influent.  At the confluence, tree-dots, tipping the watery marge, denoted what Barbot calls the “Pongo Islands.”  These are the quoin-shaped mass “Dambe” (Orleans Island) alias “Coniquet” (the Conelet), often corrupted to Konikey; the Konig Island of the old Hollander,[FN#3] and the Prince’s Island of the ancient Briton.  It was so called because held by the Mwani-pongo, who was to this region what the Mwani-congo was farther south.  The palace was large but very mean, a shell of woven reeds roofed with banana leaves:  the people, then mere savages, called their St. James’ “Goli-patta,” or “Royal House,” in imitation of a more civilized race near Cape Lopez.  The imperial islet is some six miles in circumference; it was once very well peopled, and here ships used to be careened.  The northern point which starts out to meet it is Ovindo (Oweendo of old), alias Red Point, alias “Rodney’s,” remarkable for its fair savannah, of which feature more presently.  In mid-stream lies Mbini (Embenee), successively Papegay, Parrot—­there is one in every Europeo-African river—­and Adelaide Island.