We turned, and, sure enough, there they were—­three fantastic pirates armed with guns.  We slackened our pace to let them come up, and in the meantime I got out my cargo of grapes and dropped them firmly but reluctantly into the shadows by the wayside.  But I was not afraid.  I only felt that it was not right to steal grapes.  And all the more so when the owner was around—­and not only around, but with his friends around also.  The villains came up and searched a bundle Dr. Birch had in his hand, and scowled upon him when they found it had nothing in it but some holy rocks from Mars Hill, and these were not contraband.  They evidently suspected him of playing some wretched fraud upon them, and seemed half inclined to scalp the party.  But finally they dismissed us with a warning, couched in excellent Greek, I suppose, and dropped tranquilly in our wake.  When they had gone three hundred yards they stopped, and we went on rejoiced.  But behold, another armed rascal came out of the shadows and took their place, and followed us two hundred yards.  Then he delivered us over to another miscreant, who emerged from some mysterious place, and he in turn to another!  For a mile and a half our rear was guarded all the while by armed men.  I never traveled in so much state before in all my life.

It was a good while after that before we ventured to steal any more grapes, and when we did we stirred up another troublesome brigand, and then we ceased all further speculation in that line.  I suppose that fellow that rode by on the mule posted all the sentinels, from Athens to the Piraeus, about us.

Every field on that long route was watched by an armed sentinel, some of whom had fallen asleep, no doubt, but were on hand, nevertheless.  This shows what sort of a country modern Attica is—­a community of questionable characters.  These men were not there to guard their possessions against strangers, but against each other; for strangers seldom visit Athens and the Piraeus, and when they do, they go in daylight, and can buy all the grapes they want for a trifle.  The modern inhabitants are confiscators and falsifiers of high repute, if gossip speaks truly concerning them, and I freely believe it does.

Just as the earliest tinges of the dawn flushed the eastern sky and turned the pillared Parthenon to a broken harp hung in the pearly horizon, we closed our thirteenth mile of weary, round-about marching, and emerged upon the sea-shore abreast the ships, with our usual escort of fifteen hundred Piraean dogs howling at our heels.  We hailed a boat that was two or three hundred yards from shore, and discovered in a moment that it was a police-boat on the lookout for any quarantine-breakers that might chance to be abroad.  So we dodged—­we were used to that by this time—­and when the scouts reached the spot we had so lately occupied, we were absent.  They cruised along the shore, but in the wrong direction, and shortly our own boat issued from the gloom and took us aboard.  They had heard our signal on the ship.  We rowed noiselessly away, and before the police-boat came in sight again, we were safe at home once more.