While I was resting ever so comfortably on a rampart, and cooling my baking head in the delicious breeze, an officious guide belonging to another party came up and said: 

“Senor, that high hill yonder is called the Queen’s Chair—­”

“Sir, I am a helpless orphan in a foreign land.  Have pity on me.  Don’t —­now don’t inflict that most in-FERNAL old legend on me anymore today!”

There—­I had used strong language after promising I would never do so again; but the provocation was more than human nature could bear.  If you had been bored so, when you had the noble panorama of Spain and Africa and the blue Mediterranean spread abroad at your feet, and wanted to gaze and enjoy and surfeit yourself in its beauty in silence, you might have even burst into stronger language than I did.

Gibraltar has stood several protracted sieges, one of them of nearly four years’ duration (it failed), and the English only captured it by stratagem.  The wonder is that anybody should ever dream of trying so impossible a project as the taking it by assault—­and yet it has been tried more than once.

The Moors held the place twelve hundred years ago, and a staunch old castle of theirs of that date still frowns from the middle of the town, with moss-grown battlements and sides well scarred by shots fired in battles and sieges that are forgotten now.  A secret chamber in the rock behind it was discovered some time ago, which contained a sword of exquisite workmanship, and some quaint old armor of a fashion that antiquaries are not acquainted with, though it is supposed to be Roman.  Roman armor and Roman relics of various kinds have been found in a cave in the sea extremity of Gibraltar; history says Rome held this part of the country about the Christian era, and these things seem to confirm the statement.

In that cave also are found human bones, crusted with a very thick, stony coating, and wise men have ventured to say that those men not only lived before the flood, but as much as ten thousand years before it.  It may be true—­it looks reasonable enough—­but as long as those parties can’t vote anymore, the matter can be of no great public interest.  In this cave likewise are found skeletons and fossils of animals that exist in every part of Africa, yet within memory and tradition have never existed in any portion of Spain save this lone peak of Gibraltar!  So the theory is that the channel between Gibraltar and Africa was once dry land, and that the low, neutral neck between Gibraltar and the Spanish hills behind it was once ocean, and of course that these African animals, being over at Gibraltar (after rock, perhaps—­there is plenty there), got closed out when the great change occurred.  The hills in Africa, across the channel, are full of apes, and there are now and always have been apes on the rock of Gibraltar—­but not elsewhere in Spain!  The subject is an interesting one.