The currant, like the raspberry, is willing to keep shady; but only because it is modest.  It is one of the fruits that thrive better among trees than in too dry and sunny exposures.  Therefore, in economizing space on the Home Acre it may be grown among smaller trees, or, better still, on the northern or eastern side of a wall or hedge.  But shade is not essential, except as we go south; then the requisites of moisture and shelter from the burning rays of the sun should be complied with as far as possible.  In giving this and kindred fruits partial shade, they should not be compelled to contend to any extent with the roots of trees.  This will ever prove an unequal contest.  No fruit can thrive in dense shade, or find sustenance among the voracious roots of a tree.

Select, therefore, if possible, heavy, deep, moist, yet well-drained soil, and do not fear to make and keep it very rich.  If you are restricted to sandy or gravelly soils, correct their defects with compost, decayed leaves and sods, muck, manure from the cow-stable, and other fertilizers with staying rather than stimulating qualities.  Either by plowing or forking, deepen as well as enrich the soil.  It is then ready for the plants, which may be set out either in the fall or in early spring.  I prefer the autumn—­any time after the leaves have fallen; but spring answers almost as well, while buds are dormant, or partially so.  It should be remembered that the currant starts very early, and is in full foliage before some persons are fairly wakened to garden interests.  It would, in this case, be better to wait until October, unless the plants can be obtained from a neighbor on a cloudy day; then they should be cut back two-thirds of their length before being removed, and the transfer made as quickly as possible.  Under any circumstances, take off half of the wood from the plants bought.  This need not be thrown away.  Every cutting of young wood six inches long will make a new plant in a single season.  All that is needful is to keep the wood moist until ready to put it in the ground, or, better still, a cool, damp place in the garden can be selected at once, and the cuttings sunk two-thirds of their length into the ground, and the soil pressed firm around them.  By fall they will have a good supply of roots, and by the following autumn be ready to be set out wherever you wish them to fruit.

Currant-bushes may be planted five feet apart each way, and at the same distance, if they are to line a fence.  They should be sunk a few inches deeper in the soil than they stood before, and the locality be such as to admit of good culture.  The soil should never be permitted to become hard, weedy, or grass-grown.  As a rule, I prefer two-year-old plants, while those of one year’s growth answer nearly as well, if vigorous.  If in haste for fruit, it may be well to get three-year-old plants, unless they have been dwarfed and enfeebled by neglect.  Subsequent culture consists chiefly in keeping the soil clean, mellow, rich, and therefore moist.  I have named the best fertilizers for the currant; but if the product of the horse-stable is employed, use it first as a mulch.  It will thus gradually reach the roots.  Otherwise it is too stimulating, and produces a rampant growth of wood rather than fruit.