In early April the young vine is uncovered again; and now the two uppermost buds are allowed to grow and form two strong canes, instead of one, and on this new growth four or five clusters of grapes may be permitted to mature if the vine is vigorous.  If it is feeble, take off all the fruit, And stimulate the vine into greater vigor.  Our aim is not to obtain half a dozen inferior clusters as soon as possible, but to produce a vine that will eventually almost supply a family by itself.  If several varieties have been planted, some will be found going ahead rampantly; others will exhibit a feebler growth, which can be hastened and greatly increased by enriching the surface of the soil around them and by a pail of soap-suds now and then in May or June—­but not later, unless there should be a severe drought.  There should be no effort to produce much growth during the latter part of the summer and early autumn, for then both the wood and roots will be immature and unripened when frost begins, and thus the vine receive injury.  For this reason it is usually best to apply fertilizers to vines in the fall; for if given in the spring, a late, unhealthful growth is often produced.  Throughout all subsequent years manure must be applied judiciously.  You may tell the hired man to top-dress the ground about the vines, and he will probably treat all alike; a vine that is already growing so strongly that it can scarcely be kept within bounds will receive as much as one that is slow and feeble in its development.  This is worse than waste.  Each vine should be treated in accordance with its condition and habit of growth.  What would be thought of a physician who ordered a tonic for an entire family, giving as much to one who might need depleting, as to another who, as country people say, was “puny and ailin’?” With even an assortment of half a dozen varieties we shall find after the first good start that some need a curb, and others a spur.

Stakes will answer as supports to the vines during the first and second seasons; but thereafter trellises or arbors are needed.  The latter will probably be employed over the central walk of the garden, and may be constructed after several simple and pretty designs, which I leave to the taste of the reader.  If vines are planted about buildings, fences, etc., trellises may be made of anything preferred—­of galvanized wire, slats, or rustic poles fastened to strong, durable supports.  If vines are to be trained scientifically in the open garden, I should recommend the trellises figured on pages 120 and 142 of Mr. Fuller’s work, “The Grape Culturist.”  These, beyond anything I have seen, appear the best adapted for the following out of a careful system of pruning and training.  Such a system Mr. Fuller has thoroughly and lucidly explained in the above-named book.