This art, as with so many others in China, was the
inheritance of the family we saw at work, handed down
to them through many generations. The printer
was standing at a rough work bench upon which a large
heavy stone in cubical form served as a weight to hold
in place a thoroughly lacquered sheet of tough cardboard
in which was cut the pattern to appear in white on
the cloth. Beside the stone stood a pot of thick
paste prepared from a mixture of lime and soy bean
flour. The soy beans were being ground in one
corner of the same room by a diminutive edition of
such an outfit as seen in Fig. 64. The donkey
was working in his permanent abode and whenever off
duty he halted before manger and feed. At the
operator’s right lay a bolt of white cotton
cloth fixed to unroll and pass under the stencil,
held stationary by the heavy weight. To print,
the stencil was raised and the cloth brought to place
under it. The paste was then deftly spread with
a paddle over the surface and thus upon the cloth
beneath wherever exposed through the openings in the
stencil. This completes the printing of the pattern
on one section of the bolt of cloth. The free
end of the stencil is then raised, the cloth passed
along the proper distance by hand and the stencil dropped
in place for the next application. The paste
is permitted to dry upon the cloth and when the bolt
has been dipped into the blue dye the portions protected
by the paste remain white. In this simple manner
has the printing of calico been done for centuries
for the garments of millions of children. From
the ceiling of the drying room in this printery of
olden times were hanging some hundreds of stencils
bearing different patterns. In our great calico
mills, printing hundreds of yards per minute, the
mechanics and the chemistry differ only in detail
of application and in dispatch, not in fundamental
principle.
In almost any direction we traveled outside the city,
in the pleasant mornings when the air was still, the
laying of warp for cotton cloth could be seen, to
be woven later in the country homes. We saw this
work in progress many times and in many places in the
early morning, usually along some roadside or open
place, as seen in Fig. 65, but never later in the
day. When the warp is laid each will be rolled
upon its stretcher and removed to the house to be woven.
In many places in Kiangsu province batteries of the
large dye pits were seen sunk in the fields and lined
with cement. These were six to eight feet in
diameter and four to five feet deep. In one case
observed there were nine pits in the set. Some
of the pits were neatly sheltered beneath live arbors,
as represented in Fig. 66. But much of this spinning,
weaving, dyeing and printing of late years is being
displaced by the cheaper calicos of foreign make and
most of the dye pits we saw were not now used for
this purpose, the two in the illustration serving
as manure receptacles. Our interpreter stated
however that there is a growing dissatisfaction with
foreign goods on account of their lack of durability;
and we saw many cases where the cloth dyed blue was
being dried in large quantities on the grave lands.