The first Sunday I went with him to the room.  As we walked over the Drury Lane gratings of the cellars a most foul stench came up, and one in particular I remember to this day.  A man half dressed pushed open a broken window beneath us, just as we passed by, and there issued such a blast of corruption, made up of gases bred by filth, air breathed and rebreathed a hundred times, charged with odours of unnameable personal uncleanness and disease, that I staggered to the gutter with a qualm which I could scarcely conquer.  At the doors of the houses stood grimy women with their arms folded and their hair disordered.  Grimier boys and girls had tied a rope to broken railings, and were swinging on it.  The common door to a score of lodgings stood ever open, and the children swarmed up and down the stairs carrying with them patches of mud every time they came in from the street.  The wholesome practice which amongst the decent poor marks off at least one day in the week as a day on which there is to be a change; when there is to be some attempt to procure order and cleanliness; a day to be preceded by soap and water, by shaving, and by as many clean clothes as can be procured, was unknown here.  There was no break in the uniformity of squalor; nor was it even possible for any single family to emerge amidst such altogether suppressive surroundings.  All self-respect, all effort to do anything more than to satisfy somehow the grossest wants, had departed.  The shops were open; most of them exhibiting a most miscellaneous collection of goods, such as bacon cut in slices, fire-wood, a few loaves of bread, and sweetmeats in dirty bottles.  Fowls, strange to say, black as the flagstones, walked in and out of these shops, or descended into the dark areas.  The undertaker had not put up his shutters.  He had drawn down a yellow blind, on which was painted a picture of a suburban cemetery.  Two funerals, the loftiest effort of his craft, were depicted approaching the gates.  When the gas was alight behind the blind, an effect was produced which was doubtless much admired.  He also displayed in his window a model coffin, a work of art.  It was about a foot long, varnished, studded with little brass nails, and on the lid was fastened a rustic cross stretching from end to end.  The desire to decorate existence in some way or other with more or less care is nearly universal.  The most sensual and the meanest almost always manifest an indisposition to be content with mere material satisfaction.  I have known selfish, gluttonous, drunken men spend their leisure moments in trimming a bed of scarlet geraniums, and the vulgarest and most commonplace of mortals considers it a necessity to put a picture in the room or an ornament on the mantelpiece.  The instinct, even in its lowest forms, is divine.  It is the commentary on the text that man shall not live by bread alone.  It is evidence of an acknowledged compulsion—­of which art is the highest manifestation—­to