me to ascend a high seat by the door of the mosque,
in order that everybody might see me, for the people
had assembled in such numbers as to be quite ungovernable,
climbing upon the houses, and squeezing each other,
like the spectators at an execution. Upon this
seat I remained until sunset, when I was conducted
into a neat little hut, with a small court before
it, the door of which Counti Mamadi shut, to prevent
any person from disturbing me. But this precaution
could not exclude the Moors. They climbed over
the top of the mud wall, and came in crowds into the
court, “in order,” they said, “to
see me
perform my evening devotions,
and eat eggs.” The former
of these ceremonies I did not think proper to comply
with, but I told them I had no objection to eat eggs,
provided they would bring me eggs to eat. My
landlord immediately brought me seven hen’s
eggs, and was much surprised to find that I could not
eat them raw; for it seems to be a prevalent opinion
among the inhabitants of the interior that Europeans
subsist almost entirely on this diet. When I
had succeeded in persuading my landlord that this opinion
was without foundation, and that I would gladly partake
of any victuals which he might think proper to send
me, he ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it
to be dressed for my supper. About midnight,
when the Moors had left me, he paid me a visit, and
with much earnestness desired me to write him a saphie.
“If a Moor’s saphie is good,” said
this hospitable old man, “a white man’s
must needs be better.” I readily furnished
him with one, possessed of all the virtues I could
concentrate, for it contained the Lord’s Prayer.
The pen with which it was written was made of a reed;
a little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable
ink, and a thin board answered the purpose of paper.
July 25.—Early in the morning, before the
Moors were assembled, I departed from Sansanding,
and slept the ensuing night at a small town called
Sibili, from whence on the day following I reached
Nyara, a large town at some distance from the river,
where I halted the 27th, to have my clothes washed,
and recruit my horse. The dooty there has a
very commodious house, flat-roofed, and two storeys
high. He showed me some gunpowder of his own
manufacturing; and pointed out, as a great curiosity,
a little brown monkey that was tied to a stake by
the door, telling me that it came from a far distant
country called Kong.
July 28.—I departed from Nyara, and reached
Nyamee about noon. This town is inhabited chiefly
by Foulahs from the kingdom of Masina. The dooty,
I know not why, would not receive me, but civilly
sent his son on horseback to conduct me to Modiboo,
which he assured me was at no great distance.