plains of “la belle France” were before
me—and it is “la belle France,”
however inferior to parts of England in rural beauty—the
large tracts of waving yellow corn, undulating like
a sea in the morning breeze—the interminable
reaches of forest, upon which the shadows played and
flitted, deepening the effect and mellowing the mass,
as we see them in Ruysdael’s pictures—while
now and then some tall-gabled, antiquated chateau,
with its mutilated terrace and dowager-like air of
bye-gone grandeur, would peep forth at the end of
some long avenue of lime trees, all having their own
features of beauty—and a beauty with which
every object around harmonizes well. The sluggish
peasant, in his blouse and striped night-cap—the
heavily caparisoned horse, shaking his head amidst
a Babel-tower of gaudy worsted tassels and brass bells—the
deeply laden waggon, creeping slowly along—are
all in keeping with a scene, where the very mist that
rises from the valley seems indolent and lazy, and
unwilling to impart the rich perfume of verdure with
which it is loaded. Every land has its own peculiar
character of beauty. The glaciered mountain,
the Alpine peak, the dashing cataract of Switzerland
and the Tyrol, are not finer in their way than the
long flat moorlands of a Flemish landscape, with its
clump of stunted willows cloistering over some limpid
brook, in which the oxen are standing for shelter
from the noon-day heat—while, lower down,
some rude water-wheel is mingling its sounds with
the summer bees and the merry voices of the miller
and his companions. So strayed my thoughts as
the German shook me by the arm, and asked if “I
were not ready for my breakfast?” Luckily to
this question there is rarely but the one answer.
Who is not ready for his breakfast when on the road?
How delightful, if on the continent, to escape from
the narrow limits of the dungeon-like diligence, where
you sit with your knees next your collar-bone, fainting
with heat and suffocated by dust, and find yourself
suddenly beside the tempting “plats” of
a little French dejeune, with its cutlets, its fried
fish, its poulet, its salad, and its little entre of
fruit, tempered with a not despicable bottle of Beaune.
If in England, the exchange is nearly as grateful—for
though our travelling be better, and our equipage less
“genante,” still it is no small alterative
from the stage-coach to the inn parlour, redolent
of aromatic black tea, eggs, and hot toast, with a
hospitable side-board of red, raw surloins, and York
hams, that would made a Jew’s mouth water.
While, in America, the change is greatest of all,
as any one can vouch for who has been suddenly emancipated
from the stove-heat of a “nine-inside”
leathern “conveniency,” bumping ten miles
an hour over a corduroy road, the company smoking,
if not worse; to the ample display of luxurious viands
displayed upon the breakfast-table, where, what with
buffalo steaks, pumpkin pie, gin cock-tail, and other
aristocratically called temptations, he must be indeed