near Mvumi, which was so large, and being slightly obscured from view by the outspreading branches of a gigantic baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a square tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I cherished the idea that I had discovered something most interesting which had strangely escaped the notice of my predecessors in East Africa.  A nearer view dispelled the illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of rock, measuring about forty feet each way.  The baobabs were also particularly conspicuous on this scene, no other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated parts.  These had probably been left for two reasons:  first, want of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous growth; secondly, because during a famine the fruit of the baobab furnishes a flour which, in the absence of anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing.

The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wagogo elder, of sturdy form, who in an indolent way tended the flocks, but showed a marked interest in the stranger clad in white flannels, with a Hawkes’ patent cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing in Ugogo, who came walking past him, and there were “Yambo, Musungu, Yambo, bana, bana,” delivered with a voice loud enough to make itself heard a full mile away.  No sooner had the greeting been delivered than the word “Musungu” seemed to electrify his entire village; and the people of other villages, situated at intervals near the road, noting the excitement that reigned at the first, also participated in the general frenzy which seemed suddenly to have possessed them.  I consider my progress from the first village to Mvumi to have been most triumphant; for I was accompanied by a furious mob of men, women, and children, all almost as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned upon her in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarrelling, jostling, staggering against each other for the best view of the white man, the like of whom was now seen for the first time in this part of Ugogo.  The cries of admiration, such as “Hi-le!” which broke often and in confused uproar upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted, inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent.  A respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would have won my esteem; but, ye powers, who cause etiquette to be observed in Usungu,* respectful silence, reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms unknown in savage Ugogo.  Hitherto I had compared myself to a merchant of Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of Kurdistan, selling his wares of Damascus silk, kefiyehs, &c.; but now I was compelled to lower my standard, and thought myself not much better than a monkey in a zoological collection.  One of my soldiers requested them to lessen their vociferous noise; but the evil-minded race ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to speak to the Wagogo!  When I imploringly turned to the Arabs for counsel in this strait, old Sheikh Thani, always worldly wise, said, “Heed them not; they are dogs who bite besides barking.” ____________________ * White man’s land. _____________________