While crossing a rapid stream, which, as I said before flowed close to the walls, the inhabitants of Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying their curiosity of seeing the “Great Musungu,” whose several caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, because unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth and power.  I was thus the object of a universal stare.  At one time on the banks there were considerably over a thousand natives going through the several tenses and moods of the verb “to stare,” or exhibiting every phase of the substantive, viz.—­the stare peremptory, insolent, sly, cunning, modest, and casual.  The warriors of the Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respective friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus, Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Pythias, or Achilles and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their divers opinions upon my dress and colour.  The words “Musungu kuba” had as much charm for these people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats of Hamelin, since they served to draw from within the walls across their stream so large a portion of the population; and when I continued the journey to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before I could rid myself of them.  But fortunately for my peace of mind, they finally proved vincible under the hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp.

As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and repair saddles, as well as to doctor a few of the animals, whose backs had by this time become very sore, I determined to halt here two days.  Provisions were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though comparatively dear.

On the second day I was, for the first time, made aware that my acclimatization in the ague-breeding swamps of Arkansas was powerless against the mukunguru of East Africa.  The premonitory symptoms of the African type were felt in my system at 10 A.M.  First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition to drowsiness; secondly, came the spinal ache which, commencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrae, and extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders, where it settled into a weary pain; thirdly came a chilliness over the whole body, which was quickly followed by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing temples, with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all objects of sight.  This lasted until 10 P.M., and the mukunguru left me, much prostrated in strength.

The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession after the attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas had taught me was the most powerful corrective, viz., a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn to meridian—­the first dose to be taken immediately after the first effect of the purging medicine taken at bedtime the night previous.  I may add that this treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in all others which occurred in my camp.  After the mukunguru had declared itself, there was no fear, with such a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least some days afterwards.