her highly accomplished master, who, comprehending
the situation, forthwith tenders me the loan of his
Sunday pantaloons for the evening; which offer I gladly
accept, notwithstanding the wide disproportion in their
size and mine, the landlord being, horizontally, a
very large person. Oberkirch is a pretty village
at the entrance to the narrow and charming valley
of the River Bench, up which my route leads, into the
fir-clad heights of the Black Forest. A few
miles farther up the valley I wheel through a small
village that nestles amid surroundings the loveliest
I have yet seen. Dark, frowning firs intermingled
with the lighter green of other vegetation crown the
surrounding spurs of the Knibis Mountains; vineyards,
small fields of waving rye, and green meadow cover
the lower slopes with variegated beauty, at the foot
of which huddles the cluster of pretty cottages amid
scattered orchards of blossoming fruit-trees.
The cheery lute of the herders on the mountains,
the carol of birds, and the merry music of dashing
mountain-streams fill the fresh morning air with melody.
All through this country there are apple-trees, pear-trees,
cherry-trees In the fruit season one can scarce open
his mouth out-doors without having the goddess Pomona
pop in some delicious morsel. The poplar avenues
of France have disappeared, but the road is frequently
shaded for miles with fruit-trees. I never before
saw a spot so lovely-certainly not in combination
with a wellnigh perfect road for wheeling. On
through Oppenau and Petersthal my way leads —
this latter a place of growing importance as a summer
resort, several commodious hotels with swimming-baths,
mineral waters, etc., being already prepared to
receive the anticipated influx of health and pleasure-seeking
guests this coming summer — and then up, up,
up among the dark pines leading over the Black Forest
Mountains. Mile after mile of steep incline has
now been trundled, following the Bench River to its
source. Ere long the road I have lately traversed
is visible far below, winding and twisting up the
mountain-slopes. Groups of swarthy peasant women
are carrying on their heads baskets of pine cones
to the villages below. At a distance the sight
of their bright red dresses among the sombre green
of the pines is suggestive of the fairies with which
legend has peopled the Black Forest.
The summit is reached at last, and two boundary posts apprise the traveller that on this wooded ridge he passes from Baden into Wurtemberg. The descent for miles is agreeably smooth and gradual; the mountain air blows cool and refreshing, with an odor of the pines; the scenery is Black Forest scenery, and what more could be possibly desired than this happy combination of circumstances. Reaching Freudenstadt about noon, the mountain-climbing, the bracing air, and the pine fragrance cause me to give the good people at the gasthaus an impressive lesson in the effect of cycling on the human appetite. At every town