sing out in chorus “Ah! ah! der Englander.”
and as I reply, “Yah! yah.” in response,
and smile as I wheel past them, the laughing and banter
go all along the line. The sight of an “Englander”
on one of his rambling expeditions of adventure furnishes
much amusement to the average German, who, while he
cannot help admiring the spirit of enterprise that
impels him, fails to comprehend where the enjoyment
can possibly come in. The average German would
much rather loll around, sipping wine or beer, and
smoking cigarettes, than impel a bicycle across a
continent. A few miles eastward of the Rhine
another grim fortress frowns upon peaceful village
and broad, green meads, and off yonder to the right
is yet another; sure enough, this Franco-German frontier
is one vast military camp, with forts, and soldiers,
and munitions of war everywhere. When I crossed
the Rhine I left Lower Alsace, and am now penetrating
the middle Rhine region, where villages are picturesque
clusters of gabled cottages — a contrast to the
shapeless and ancient-looking stone structures of
the French villages. The difference also extends
to the inhabitants; the peasant women of France, in
either real or affected modesty, would usually pretend
not to notice anything extraordinary as I wheeled
past, but upon looking back they would almost invariably
be seen standing and gazing after my receding figure
with unmistakable interest; but the women of these
Rhine villages burst out into merry peals of laughter.
Rolling over fair roads into the village of Oberkirch,
I conclude to remain for the night, and the first
thing undertaken is to disburden the bicycle of its
covering of clay. The awkward-looking hostler
comes around several times and eyes the proceedings
with glances of genuine disapproval, doubtless thinking
I am cleaning it myself instead of letting him swab
it with a besom with the single purpose in view of
dodging the inevitable tip. The proprietor can
speak a few words of English. He puts his bald
head out of the window above, and asks: “Pe
you Herr Shtevens ?” “Yah, yah,”
I reply.
" Do you go mit der veld around ?” “Yah;
I goes around mit the world.”
“I shoust read about you mit der noospaper.”
" Ah, indeed! what newspaper?”
“Die Frankfurter Zeitung. You go around
mit der veld.” The landlord looks delighted
to have for a guest the man who goes “mit der
veld around,” and spreads the news. During
the evening several people of importance and position
drop in to take a curious peep at me and my wheel.
A dampness about the knees, superinduced by wheeling
in rubber leggings, causes me to seek the privilege
of the kitchen fire upon arrival. After listening
to the incessant chatter of the cook for a few moments,
I suddenly dispense with all pantomime, and ask in
purest English the privilege of drying my clothing
in peace and tranquillity by the kitchen fire.
The poor woman hurries out, and soon returns with