satisfaction my feathery purchase contains, it begins
to rain and hail furiously, and so continues with
little interruption all the forenoon, compelling me,
much against my inclination, to search out in Tronville,
if possible, some accommodation till to-morrow morning.
The village is a shapeless cluster of stone houses
and stables, the most prominent feature of the streets
being huge heaps of manure and grape-vine prunings;
but I manage to obtain the necessary shelter, and such
other accommodations as might be expected in an out-of-the-way
village, unfrequented by visitors from one year’s
end to another. The following morning is still
rainy, and the clayey roads of the Ornain Valley are
anything but inviting wheeling; but a longer stay
in Tronville is not to be thought of, for, among other
pleasantries of the place here, the chief table delicacy
appears to be boiled escargots, a large, ungainly snail
procured from the neighboring hills. Whilst
fond of table delicacies, I emphatically draw the
line at escargots. Pulling out toward Toul I
find the roads, as expected, barely ridable; but the
vineyard-environed little valley, lovely in its tears,
wrings from one praise in spite of muddy roads and
lowering weather. En route down the valley I
meet a battery of artillery travelling from Toul to
Bar-le Duc or some other point to the westward; and
if there is any honor in throwing a battery of French
artillery into confusion, and wellnigh routing them,
then the bicycle and I are fairly entitled to it.
As I ride carelessly toward them, the leading horses
suddenly wheel around and begin plunging about the
road. The officers’ horses, and, in fact,
the horses of the whole company, catch the infection,
and there is a plunging and a general confusion all
along the line, seeing which I, of course, dismount
and retire — but not discomfited — from
the field until they have passed. These French
horses are certainly not more than half-trained.
I passed a battery of English artillery on the road
leading out of Coventry, and had I wheeled along under
the horses’ noses there would have been no confusion
whatever.
On the divide between the Ornain and Moselle Valleys
the roads are hillier, but somewhat less muddy.
The weather continues showery and unsettled, and
a short distance beyond Void I find myself once again
wandering off along the wrong road. The peasantry
hereabout seem to have retained a lively recollection
of the Prussians, my helmet appearing to have the
effect of jogging their memory, and frequently, when
stopping to inquire about the roads, the first word
in response will be the pointed query, “Prussian.”
By following the directions given by three different
peasants, I wander along the muddy by-roads among the
vineyards for two wet, unhappy hours ere I finally
strike the main road to Toul again. After floundering
along the wellnigh unimproved by-ways for two hours
one thoroughly appreciates how much he is indebted