unassisted. Some wiseacre has placed it on record
that too much of a good thing is worse than none at
all; however that may be, from having concluded that
the friendly iron guide-posts would be found on every
corner where necessary, pointing out the way with infallible
truthfulness, and being doubtless influenced by the
superior levelness of the road leading down the valley
of the Seine in comparison with the one leading over
the bluffs, I wander toward eventide into Elbeuf, instead
of Pont de l’ Arques, as I had intended; but
it matters little, and I am content to make the best
of my surroundings. Wheeling along the crooked,
paved streets of Elbeuf, I enter a small hotel, and,
after the customary exchange of civilities, I arch
my eyebrows at an intelligent -looking madaine, and
inquire, " Comprendre Anglais.” “Non,”
replies the lady, looking puzzled, while I proceed
to ventilate my pantomimic powers to try and make
my wants understood. After fifteen minutes of
despairing effort, mademoiselle, the daughter, is despatched
to the other side of the town, and presently returns
with a be whiskered Frenchman, who, in very much broken
English, accompanying his words with wondrous gesticulations,
gives me to understand that he is the only person in
all Elbeuf capable of speaking the English language,
and begs me to unburden myself to him without reserve.
He proves himself useful and obliging, kindly interesting
himself in obtaining me comfortable accommodation at
reasonable rates. This Elbeuf hotel, though,
is anything but an elegant establishment, and le proprietaire,
though seemingly intelligent enough, brings me out
a bottle of the inevitable vin ordinaire (common red
wine) at breakfast-time, instead of the coffee for
which my opportune interpreter said he had given the
order yester-eve. If a Frenchman only sits down
to a bite of bread and cheese he usually consumes a
pint bottle of vin ordinaire with it. The loaves
of bread here are rolls three and four feet long,
and frequently one of these is laid across —
or rather along, for it is oftentimes longer than
the table is wide — the table for you to hack
away at during your meal, according to your bread-eating
capacity or inclination.
Monsieur, the accomplished, come down to see his Anglais friend and protege next morning, a few minutes after his Anglais friend and protege, has started off toward a distant street called Rue Poussen, which le garcon had unwittingly directed him to when he inquired the way to the bureau de poste; the natural result, I suppose, of the difference between Elbeuf pronunciation and mine. Discovering my mistake upon arriving at the Rue Poussen, I am more fortunate in my attack upon the interpreting abilities of a passing citizen, who sends an Elbeuf gamin to guide me to the post-office.