and the kind-hearted lady’s apprehensions of
possible injury are thus happily allayed. In
two hours after landing, the bicycle is safely stowed
away in the underground store-rooms of the Liverpool
& Northwestern Railway Company, and in two hours more
I am wheeling rapidly toward London, through neatly
cultivated fields, and meadows and parks of that intense
greenness met with nowhere save in the British Isles,
and which causes a couple of native Americans, riding
in the same compartment, and who are visiting England
for the first time, to express their admiration of
it all in the unmeasured language of the genuine Yankee
when truly astonished and delighted. Arriving
in London I lose no time in seeking out Mr. Bolton,
a well-known wheelman, who has toured on the continent
probably as extensively as any other English cycler,
and to whom I bear a letter of introduction.
Together, on Monday afternoon, we ruthlessly invade
the sanctums of the leading cycling papers in London.
Mr. Bolton is also able to give me several useful
hints concerning wheeling through France and Germany.
Then comes the application for a passport, and the
inevitable unpleasantness of being suspected by every
policeman and detective about the government buildings
of being a wild-eyed dynamiter recently arrived from
America with the fell purpose of blowing up the place.
On Tuesday I make a formal descent on the Chinese
Embassy, to seek information regarding the possibility
of making a serpentine trail through the Flowery Kingdom
via Upper Burmah to Hong-Kong or Shanghai. Here
I learn from Dr. McCarty, the interpreter at the Embassy,
as from Mr. French, that, putting it as mildly as
possible, I must expect a wild time generally in getting
through the interior of China with a bicycle.
The Doctor feels certain that I may reasonably anticipate
the pleasure of making my way through a howling wilderness
of hooting Celestials from one end of the country
to the other. The great danger, he thinks, will
be not so much the well-known aversion of the Chinese
to having an “outer barbarian” penetrate
the sacred interior of their country, as the enormous
crowds that would almost constantly surround me out
of curiosity at both rider and wheel, and the moral
certainty of a foreigner unwittingly doing something
to offend the Chinamen’s peculiar and deep-rooted
notions of propriety. This, it is easily seen,
would be a peculiarly ticklish thing to do when surrounded
by surging masses of dangling pig-tails and cerulean
blouses, the wearers of which are from the start predisposed
to make things as unpleasant as possible. My
own experience alone, however, will prove the kind
of reception I am likely to meet with among them;
and if they will only considerately refrain from impaling
me on a bamboo, after a barbarous and highly ingenious
custom of theirs, I little reck what other unpleasantries
they have in store. After one remains in the
world long enough to find it out, he usually becomes