enthusiastically remarks an old gentelman in spectacles,
whom I chance to encounter on the heights east of
Herkimer. Of the first assertion I have nothing
to say, having passed through a dozen “garden
spots of the world " on this tour across America; but
there is no gainsaying the fact that the Mohawk Valley,
as viewed from this vantage spot, is wonderfully beautiful.
I think it must have been on this spot that the poet
received inspiration to compose the beautiful song
that is sung alike in the quiet homes of the valley
itself and in the trapper’s and hunter’s
tent on the far off Yellowstone — “Fair
is the vale where the Mohawk gently glides, On its
clear, shining way to the sea.” The valley
ia one of the natural gateways of commerce, for, at
Little Falls — where it contracts to a mere
pass between the hills — one can almost throw
a stone across six railway tracks, the Erie Canal and
the Mohawk River. Spending an hour looking over
the magnificent Capitol building at Albany, I cross
the Hudson, and proceed to ride eastward between the
two tracks of the Boston & Albany Railroad, finding
the riding very fair. From the elevated road-bed
I cast a longing, lingering look down the Hudson Valley,
that stretches away southward like a heaven-born dream,
and sigh at the impossibility of going two ways at
once. " There’s $50 fine for riding a bicycle
along the B. & A. Railroad,” I am informed at
Albany, but risk it to Schodack, where I make inquiries
of a section foreman. “No; there’s
no foine; but av yeez are run over an’ git killed,
it’ll be useless for yeez to inther suit agin
the company for damages,” is the reassuring
reply; and the unpleasant visions of bankrupting fines
dissolve in a smile at this characteristic Milesian
explanation. Crossing the Massachusetts boundary
at the village of State Line, I find the roads excellent;
and, thinking that the highways of the " Old Bay State
" will be good enough anywhere, I grow careless about
the minute directions given me by Albany wheelmen,
and, ere long, am laboriously toiling over the heavy
roads and steep grades of the Berkshire Hills, endeavoring
to get what consolation I can, in return for unridable
roads, out of the charming scenery, and the many interesting
features of the Berkshire-Hill country. It is
at Otis, in the midst of these hills, that I first
become acquainted with the peculiar New England dialect
in its native home. The widely heralded intellectual
superiority of the Massachusetts fair ones asserts
itself even in the wildest parts of these wild hills;
for at small farms — that, in most States, would
be characterized by bare-footed, brown-faced housewives
— I encounter spectacled ladies whose fair faces
reflect the encyclopaedia of knowledge within, and
whose wise looks naturally fill me with awe.
At Westfield I learn that Karl Kron, the author and
publisher of the American roadbook, " Ten Thousand
Miles on a Bicycle” — not to be outdone
by my exploit of floating the bicycle across the Humboldt