slender rapier of a George III. courtier. >From here
we visit other rooms, glittering rooms, all mirror-work
and white stucco. Into rooms we go whose walls
consist of myriads of tiny squares of rich stained
glass, worked into intricate patterns and geometrical
designs, but which are now rapidly falling into decay;
and then we go to see the most novel feature of the
garden-Fatteh-ali Shah’s marble slide, or shute.
Passing along a sloping, arched vault beneath a roof
of massive marble, we find ourselves in a small, subterranean
court, through which a stream of pure spring water
is flowing along a white marble channel, and where
the atmosphere must be refreshingly cool even in the
middle of summer. In the centre of the little
court is a round tank about four feet deep, also of
white marble, which can be filled at pleasure with
water, clear as crystal, from the running stream.
Leading from an upper chamber, and overlapping the
tank, is a smooth-worn marble slide or shute, about
twenty feet long and four broad, which is pitched
at an angle that makes it imperative upon any one trusting
themselves to attempt the descent, to slide helplessly
into the tank. Here, on summer afternoons, with
the chastened daylight peeping through a stained-glass
window in the roof, and carpeting the white marble
floor with rainbow hues, with the only entrance to
the cool and massive marble court, guarded by armed
retainers, who while guarding it were conscious of
guarding their own precious lives, Fattehali Shah was
wont to beguile the hours away by making merry with
the bewitching nymphs of his anderoon, transforming
them for the nonce into naiads.
There are no nymphs nor naiads here now, nothing but
the smoothly-worn marble shute to tell the tale of
the merry past; but we obtain a realistic idea of
their sportive games by taking the bulldogs to the
upper chamber, and giving them a start down the slide.
As they clutch and claw, and look scared, and appeal
mutely for assistance, only to slide gradually down,
down, down, and fall with a splash into the tank at
last, we have only to imagine the bull-dogs transformed
into Fatteh-ali Shah’s naiads, to learn something
of the truth of current stories. After we have
slid the dogs down a few times, and they begin to
realize that they are not sliding hopelessly down
to destruction, they enjoy the sport as much as we,
or as much as the naiads perhaps did a hundred years
ago. That portion of the Teheran bazaar immediately
behind the Shah’s winter palace, is visited
almost daily by Europeans, and their presence excites
little comment or attention from the natives; but
I had frequently heard the remark that a Ferenghi
couldn’t walk through the southern, or more
exclusive native quarters, without being insulted.
Determined to investigate, I sallied forth one afternoon
alone, entering the bazaar on the east side of the
palace wall, where I had entered it a dozen times
before.