and, upon wheeling through the city gate, I find myself
in the immediate presence of another grand review,
again under the personal inspection of the Naibi-Sultan.
Disturbing two grand reviews within “two days
is, of course, more than I bargained for, and I would
gladly have retreated through the gate; but coming
full upon them unexpectedly, I find it impossible
to prevent the inevitable result. The troops
are drawn up in line about fifty yards from the road,
and are for the moment standing at ease, awaiting
the arrival of the Shah, while the Commander-in-chief
and his staff are indulging in soothing whiffs at the
seductive kalian. The cry of “asp-i-awhan
Sahib!” breaks out all along the line, and scores
of soldiers break ranks, and come running helter-skelter
toward the road, regardless of the line-officers, who
frantically endeavor to wave them back. Dashing
ahead, I am soon beyond the lines, congratulating
myself that the effects of my disturbing presence is
quickly over; but ere long, I discover that there
is no other ridable road back, and am consequently
compelled to pass before them again on returning.
Accordingly, I hasten to return, before the arrival
of the Shah. Seeing me returning, the Naib-i-Sultan
and his staff advance to the road, with kalians in
hand, their oval faces wreathed in smiles of approbation;
they extend cordial salutations as I wheel past.
The Persians seem to do little more than play at
soldiering; perhaps in no other army in the world could
a lone cycler demoralize a general review twice within
two days, and then be greeted with approving smiles
and cordial salutations by the commander and his entire
staff. Through November and the early part of
December, the weather in Teheran continues, on the
whole, quite agreeable, and suitable for short-distance
wheeling; but mindful of the long distance yet before
me, and the uncertainty of touching at any point where
supplies could be forwarded, I deem it advisable to
take my exercise afoot, and save my rubber tires for
the more serious work of the journey to the Pacific.
There are no green lanes down which to stroll, nor
emerald meads through which to wander about the Persian
capital, though what green things there are, retain
much of their greenness until the early winter months.
The fact of the existence of any green thing whatever
— and even to a greater extent, its survival
through the scorching summer months — depending
almost wholly on irrigation, enables vegetation to
retain its pristine freshness almost until suddenly
pounced upon and surprised by the frost. There
is no springy turf, no velvety greensward in the land
of the Lion and the Sun. No sooner does one get
beyond the vegetation, called into existence by the
moisture of an irrigating ditch or a stream, than
the bare, gray surface of the desert crunches beneath
one’s tread. There is an avenue leading
part way from the city to the summer residence of
the English Minister at Gulaek, that conjures up memories
of an English lane; but the double row of chenars,
poplars, and jujubes are kept alive by irrigation,
and all outside is verdureless desert.