scrambled eggs which I have brought along. On
past Seyudoon and approaching Kasveen, the plain widens
to a considerable extent and becomes perfectly level;
apparent distances become deceptive, and objects at
a distance assume weird, fantastic shapes; beautiful
mirages hold out their allurements from all directions;
the sombre walls of villages present the appearance
of battlemented fortresses rising up from the mirror-like
surface of silvery lakes, and orchards and groves
seem shadowy, undefinable objects floating motionless
above the earth. The telegraph poles traversing
the plain in a long, straight line until lost to view
in the hazy distance, appear to be suspended in mid-air;
camels, horses, and all moving objects more than a
mile away, present the strange optical illusion of
animals walking through the air many feet above the
surface of the earth. Long rows of kanaat mounds
traverse the plain in every direction, leading from
the numerous villages to distant mountain chains.
Descending one of the sloping cavernous entrances
before mentioned, for a drink, I am rather surprised
at observing numerous fishes disporting themselves
in the water, which, on the comparatively level plain,
flows but slowly; perhaps they are an eyeless variety
similar to those found in the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky;
still they get a glimmering light from the numerous
perpendicular shafts. Flocks of wild pigeons
also frequent these underground water-courses, and
the peasantry sometimes capture them by the hundred
with nets placed over the shafts; the kanaats are
not bricked archways, but merely tunnels burrowed through
the ground. Three miles of loose sand and stones
have to be trundled through before reaching Kasveen;
nevertheless my promised sixty miles are overcome,
and I enter the city gate at 2 P.M. A trundle
through several narrow, crooked streets brings me
to an inner gateway emerging upon a broad, smooth
avenue; a short ride down this brings me to a large
enclosure containing the custom-house offices and
a fine brick caravanserai. Yet another prince
appears here in the person of a custom-house official;
I readily grant the requested privilege of seeing
me ride, but the title of a Persian prince is no longer
associated in my mind with greatness and importance;
princes in Persia are as plentiful as counts in Italy
or barons in Germany, yet it rather shocks one’s
dreams of the splendor of Oriental royalty to find
princes manipulating the keys of a one wire telegraph
control-station at a salary of about forty dollars
a month (25 tomans), or attending to the prosy duties
of a small custom-house. Kasveen is important
as being the half-way station between Teheran and the
Caspian port of Eesht, and on the highway of travel
and commerce between Northern Persia and Europe; added
importance is likewise derived from its being the
terminus of a broad level road from the capital, and
where travellers and the mail from Teheran have to
be transferred from wheeled vehicles to the backs