of a lone Ferenghi meandering through their wretched
village on a wheel, as an opportunity of doing something
aggressive for the cause of Islam not to be overlooked;
I am followed by a hooting mob of bare-legged wretches,
who forthwith proceed to make things lively and interesting,
by pelting me with stones and clods of dirt.
One of these wantonly aimed missiles catches me square
between the shoulders, with a force that, had it struck
me fairly on the back of the neck, would in all probability
have knocked me clean out of the saddle; unfortunately,
several irrigating ditches crossing the road immediately
ahead prevent escape by a spurt, and nothing remains
but to dismount and proceed to make the best of it.
There are only about fifty of them actively interested,
and part of these being mere boys, they are anything
but a formidable crowd of belligerents if one could
only get in among them with a stuffed club; they seem
but little more than human vermin in their rags and
nakedness, and like vermin, the greatest difficulty
is to get hold of them. Seeing me dismount,
they immediately take to their heels, only to turn
and commence throwing stones again at finding themselves
unpursued; while I am retreating and actively dodging
the showers of missiles, they gradually venture closer
and closer, until things becoming too warm and dangerous,
I drop the bicycle, and make a feint toward them;
they then take to their heels, to return to the attack
again as before, when I again commence retreating.
Finally I try the experiment of a shot in the air,
by way of notifying them of my ability to do them
serious injury; this has the effect of keeping them
at a more respectful distance, but they seem to understand
that I am not intending serious shooting, and the more
expert throwers manage to annoy me considerably until
ridable ground is reached; seeing me mount, they all
come racing pell-mell after me, hurling stones, and
howling insulting epithets after me as a Ferenghi,
but with smooth road ahead I am, of course, quickly
beyond their reach.
The villages east of Sultaneah are observed to be,
almost without exception, surrounded by a high mud
wall, a characteristic giving them the appearance
of fortifications rather than mere agricultural villages;
the original object of this was, doubtless, to secure
themselves against surprises from wandering tribes;
and as the Persians seldom think of changing anything,
the custom is still maintained. Bushes are now
occasionally observed near the roadside, from every
twig of which a strip of rag is fluttering in the
breeze; it is an ancient custom still kept up among
the Persian peasantry when approaching any place they
regard with reverence, as the ruined mosque and imperial
palace at Sultaneah, to tear a strip of rag from their
clothing and fasten it to some roadside bush; this
is supposed to bring them good luck in their undertakings,
and the bushes are literally covered with the variegated
offerings of the superstitious ryots; where no bushes