aloud from the Koran with a peculiar and impressive
intonation; they then walk about the village holding
out their alms-receiver and shouting “huk yah
huk! huk yah huk " Half afraid of incurring their
displeasure, few of the villagers refuse to contribute
a copper or portable cooked provisions. Most
dervishes are addicted to the intemperate use of opium,
bhang (a preparation of Indian hemp), arrack, and
other baleful intoxicants, generally indulging to
excess whenever they have collected sufficient money;
they are likewise credited with all manner of debauchery;
it is this that accounts for their pale, haggard appearance.
The following quotation from “In the Land of
the Lion and Sun,” and which is translated from
the Persian, is eloquently descriptive of the general
appearance of the dervish: The dervish had the
dullard air, The maddened look, the vacant stare, That
bhang and contemplation give. He moved, but did
not seem to live; His gaze was savage, and yet sad;
What we should call stark, staring mad. All down
his back, his tangled hair Flowed wild, unkempt; his
head was bare; A leopard’s skin was o’er
him flung; Around his neck huge beads were hung, And
in his hand-ah! there’s the rub- He carried a
portentous club. After visiting the dervishes
I spend an hour in an adjacent tchai-khan drinking
tea with my escort and treating them to sundry well-deserved
kalians. Among the rabble collected about the
doorway is a half-witted youngster of about ten or
twelve summers with a suit of clothes consisting of
a waist string and a piece of rag about the size of
an ordinary pen-wiper. He is the unfortunate
possessor of a stomach disproportionately large and
which intrudes itself upon other people’s notice
like a prize pumpkin at an agricultural fair.
This youth’s chief occupation appears to be
feeding melon-rinds to a pet sheep belonging to the
tchai-khan and playing a resonant tattoo on his abnormally
obtrusive paunch with the palms of his hands.
This produces a hollow, echoing sound like striking
an inflated bladder with a stuffed club; and considering
that the youth also introduces a novel and peculiar
squint into the performance, it is a remarkably edifying
spectacle. Supper-time coming round, the soldiers
show the way to an eating place, where we sup off delicious
bazaar-kabobs, one of the most tasteful preparations
of mutton one could well imagine. The mutton
is minced to the consistency of paste and properly
seasoned; it is then spread over flat iron skewers
and grilled over a glowing charcoal fire; when nicely
browned they are laid on a broad pliable sheet of
bread in lieu of a plate, and the skewers withdrawn,
leaving before the customer a dozen long flat fingers
of nicely browned kabobs reposing side by side on
the cake of wheaten bread-a most appetizing and digestible
dish. Returning to the caravanserai, I dismiss
my faithful soldiers with a suitable present, for
which they loudly implore the blessings of Allah on
my head, and for the third or fourth time impress upon