I respectfully beg to be excused. While thus
enjoying a pleasant hour in the garden, a series of
resounding thwacks are heard somewhere near by, and
looking around some intervening shrubs I observe a
couple of far-rashes bastinadoing a culprit; seeing
me more interested in this novel method of administering
justice than in looking at the youngsters trying to
climb ropes, the Governor leads the way thither.
The man, evidently a ryot, is lying on his back,
his feet are lashed together and held soles uppermost
by means of an horizontal pole, while the farrashes
briskly belabor them with willow sticks. The
soles of the ryot’s feet are hard and thick
as rhinoceros hide almost from habitually walking barefooted,
and under these conditions his punishment is evidently
anything but severe. The flagellation goes merrily
and uninterruptedly forward until fifty sticks about
five feet long and thicker than a person’s thumb
are broken over his feet without eliciting any signals
of distress from the horny-hoofed ryot, except an
occasional sorrowful groan of “A-l-l-ah.”
He is then loosed and limps painfully away, but it
looks like a rather hypocritical limp, after all;
fifty sticks, by the by, is a comparatively light
punishment, several hundred sometimes being broken
at a single punishment. Upon taking my leave
the Governor kindly details a couple of soldiers to
show me to the best caravanserai, and to remain and
protect me from the worry and annoyance of the crowds
until my departure from the city. Arriving at
the caravanserai, my valiant protectors undertake
to keep the following crowd from entering the courtyard;
the crowd refuses to see the justice of this arbitrary
proceeding, and a regular pitched battle ensues in
the gateway. The caravanserai-jees reinforce
the soldiers, and by laying on vigorously with thick
sticks, they finally put the rabble to flight.
They then close the caravanserai gates until the
excitement has subsided. Khoi is a city of perhaps
fifty thousand inhabitants, and among them all there
is no one able to speak a word of English. Contemplating
the surging mass of woolly-hatted Persians from the
bala-khana (balcony; our word is taken from the Persian),
of the caravanserai, and hearing nothing but unintelligible
language, I detect myself unconsciously recalling
the lines: " Oh it was pitiful; in a whole city
full—.” It is the first large city
I have visited without finding somebody capable of
speaking at least a few words of my own language.
Locking the bicycle up, I repair to the bazaar, my
watchful and zealous attendants making the dust fly
from the shoulders of such unlucky wights whose eager
inquisitiveness to obtain a good close look brings
them within the reach of their handy staves.
We are followed by immense crowds, a Ferenghi being
a rara avis in Khoi, and the fame of the wonderful
asp-i (horse of iron) has spread like wild-fire through
the city. In the bazaar I obtain Russian silver
money, which is the chief currency of the country
as far east as Zendjan. Partly to escape from
the worrying crowds, and partly to ascertain the way
out next morning, as I intend making an early start,
I get the soldiers to take me outside the city wall
and show me the Tabreez road.