repast is spread on yellow-checkered tablecloths
on the carpeted floor; the Governor squats cross-legged
at one end, the stately-looking wiseacres in flowing
gowns range themselves along each side in a similar
attitude, with much solemnity and show of dignity;
they — at least so I fancy — evidently
are anything but rejoiced at the prospect of eating
with an infidel Ferenghi. The Governor, being
a far more enlightened and consequently less bigoted
personage, looks about him a trifle embarrassed, as
if searching for some place where he can seat me in
a position of becoming honor without offending the
prejudices of his sanctimonious counsellors.
Noticing this, I at once come to his relief by taking
the position farthest from him, attempting to imitate
them in their cross-legged attitude. My unhappy
attempt to sit in this uncomfortable attitude —
uncomfortable at least to anybody unaccustomed to
it — provokes a smile from His Excellency, and
he straightway orders an attendant to fetch in a chair
and a small table; the counsellors look on in silence,
but they are evidently too deeply impressed with their
own dignity and holiness to commit themselves to any
such display of levity as a smile. A portion
of each dish is placed upon my table, together with
a travellers’ combination knife, fork and spoon,
a relic, doubtless, of the Governor’s Parisian
experience. His Excellency having waited and
kept the counsellors waiting until these preparations
are finished, motions for me to commence eating, and
then begins himself. The repast consists of
boiled mutton, rice pillau with curry, mutton chops,
hard-boiled eggs with lettuce, a pastry of sweetened
rice-flour, musk-melons, water-melons, several kinds
of fruit, and for beverage glasses of iced sherbet;
of all the company I alone use knife, fork, and plates.
Before each Persian is laid a broad sheet of bread;
bending their heads over this they scoop up small handfuls
of pillau, and toss it dextrously into their mouths;
scattering particles missing the expectantly opened
receptacle fall back on to the bread; this handy sheet
of bread is used as a plate for placing a chop or anything
else on, as a table-napkin for wiping finger-tips
between courses, and now and then a piece is pulled
off and eaten. When the meal is finished, an
attendant waits on each guest with a brazen bowl, an
ewer of water and a towel. After the meal is
over the Governor is no longer handicapped by the
religious prejudices of the mollahs, and leaving them
he invites me into the garden to see his two little
boys go through their gymnastic exercises. They
are clever little fellows of about seven and nine,
respectively, with large black eyes and clear olive
complexions; all the time we are watching them the
Governor’s face is wreathed in a fond, parental
smile. The exercises consist chiefly in climbing
a thick rope dangling from a cross-beam. After
seeing me ride the bicycle the Governor wants me to
try my hand at gymnastics, but being nothing of a gymnast