man, is seated in a room with a couple of seyuds,
or descendants of the prophet; they are helping themselves
from a large platter of the finest, pears, peaches,
and egg plums I ever saw anywhere. The room
is carpeted with costly rugs and carpets in which
one’s feet sink perceptibly at every step; the
walls and ceiling are artistically stuccoed, and the
doors and windows are gay with stained glass.
Abandoning myself to the guidance of the moonshi bashi,
I ride around the garden-walks, show them the bicycle,
revolver, map of Persia, etc.; like the moonshi
bashi, they become deeply interested in the map, finding
much amusement and satisfaction in having me point
out the location of different Persian cities, seemingly
regarding my ability to do so as evidence of exceeding
cleverness and erudition. The untravelled Persians
of the northern provinces regard Teheran as the grand
idea of a large and important city; if there is any
place in the whole world larger and more important,
they think it may perhaps be Stamboul. The fact
that Stamboul is not on my map while Teheran is, they
regard as conclusive proof of the superiority of
their own capital. The moonshi bashi’s
chief purpose in accompanying me hither has been to
introduce me to the attention of the “hoikim”;
although the pronunciation is a little different from
hakim, I attribute this to local brogue, and have
been surmising this personage to be some doctor, who,
perhaps, having graduated at a Frangistan medical
college, the moonshi bashi thinks will be able to
converse with me. After partaking of fruit and
tea we continue on our way to the nearest gate-way
of the city proper, Khoi being surrounded by a ditch
and battlemented mud wall. Arriving at a large,
public inclosure, my guide sends in a letter, and shortly
afterward delivers me over to some soldiers, who forthwith
conduct me into the presence of — not a doctor,
but Ali Khan, the Governor of the city, an officer
who hereabouts rejoices in the title of the “hoikim.”
The Governor proves to be a man of superior intelligence;
he has been Persian ambassador to France some time
ago, and understands French fairly well; consequently
we manage to understand each other after a fashion.
Although he has never before seen a bicycle, his
knowledge of the mechanical ingenuity of the Ferenghis
causes him to regard it with more intelligence than
an un-travelled native, and to better comprehend my
journey and its object. Assisted by a dozen
mollahs (priests) and officials in flowing gowns and
henna-tinted beards and finger-nails, the Governor
is transacting official business, and he invites me
to come into the council chamber and be seated.
In a few minutes the noon-tide meal is announced;
the Governor invites me to dine with them, and then
leads the way into the dining-room, followed by his
counsellors, who form in line behind him according
to their rank. The dining-room is a large, airy
apartment, opening into an extensive garden; a bountiful