of the luckless wight who ventures upon seeking equity
at their hands. A sorrowful-visaged husbandman
is evidently experiencing the easy simplicity of Persian
civil justice as I enter the garden; he wears the
mournful expression of a man conscious of being irretrievably
doomed, while the festive Kahn and his equally festive
moonshi bashi (chief secretary) are laying their wicked
heads together and whispering mysteriously, fifty
paces away from everybody, ever and anon looking suspiciously
around as though fearful of the presence of eavesdroppers.
After duly binning, a young man called Abdullah, who
seems to be at the beck and call of everybody, brings
forth the samovar, and we drink the customary tea
of good fellowship, after which they examine such of
my modest effects as take their fancy. The moonshi
bashi, as becomes a man of education, is quite infatuated
with my pocket map of Persia; the fact that Persia
occupies so great a space on the map in comparison
with the small portions of adjoining countries visible
around the edges makes a powerful appeal to his national
vanity, and he regards me with increased affection
every time I trace out for him the comprehensive boundary
line of his native Iran. After nightfall we
repair to the principal tent, and Mohammed Ali Khan
and his secretary consume the evening hours in the
joyous occupation of alternately smoking the kalian
(Persian water-pipe, not unlike the Turkish nargileh,
except that it has a straight stem instead of a coiled
tube), and swallowing glasses of raw arrack every
few minutes; they furthermore amuse themselves by trying
to induce me to follow their noble example, and in
poking fun at another young man because his conscientious
scruples regarding the Mohammedan injunction against
intoxicants forbids him indulging with them.
About eight o’clock the Khan becomes a trifle
sentimental and very patriotic. Producing a
pair of silver-mounted horse-pistols from a corner
of the tent, and waving them theatrically about, he
proclaims aloud his mighty devotion to the Shah.
At nine o’clock Abdullah brings in the supper.
The Khan’s vertebra has become too limp and
willowy to enable him to sit upright, and he has become
too indifferent to such coarse, un-spiritual things
as stewed chicken and musk-melons to care about eating
any, while the moonshi bashi’s affection for
me on account of the map has become so overwhelming
that he deliberately empties all the chicken on to
my sheet of bread, leaving none whatever for himself
and the phenomenal young person with the conscientious
scruples.
When bedtime arrives it requires the united exertions
of Abdullah and the phenomenal young man to partially
undress Mohammed Ali Khan and drag him to his couch
on the floor, the Kahn being limp as a dish-rag and
a moderately bulky person. The moonshi bashi,
as becomes an individual of lesser rank and superior
mental attainments, is not quite so helpless as his
official superior, but on retiring he humorously reposes
his feet on the pillow and his head on nothing but
the bare floor of the tent, and stubbornly refuses
to permit Abdullah to alter either his pillow or his
position. The phenomenal young man and myself
likewise seek our respective pile of quilts, Abdullah
removes the lamp, draws a curtain over the entrance
of the tent, and retires.