always remain an uncertainty. I am afraid, however,
that with the advantage on their side, the Koordish
herdsmen rarely trouble themselves about any such
uncongenial task as peace-making. Reaching the
smooth ground before any of the new-comers overtake
me, I mount and speed away, followed by wild yells
from a dozen Koordish throats, and chased by a dozen
of their dogs. Upon sober second thought, when
well away from the vicinity, I conclude this to have
been a rather ticklish incident; had they attacked
me in the absence of anything else to defend myself
with, I should have been compelled to shoot them;
the nearest Persian village is about ten miles distant;
the absence of anything like continuously ridable road
would have made it impossible to out-distance their
horsemen, and a Persian village would have afforded
small security against a party of enraged Koords,
after all. The first village I arrive at to-day,
I again attempt the “skedaddling” dodge
on them that proved so successful on one occasion
yesterday; but I am foiled by a rocky “jump-off”
in the road to-day. The road is not so favorable
for spurting as yesterday, and the racing ryots grab
me amid much boisterous merriment ere * I overcome
the obstruction; they take particular care not to give
me another chance until the arrival of the Khan.
The country hereabouts consists of gravelly, undulating
plateaus between the mountains, and well-worn camel-paths
afford some excellent wheeling. Near mid-day,
while laboriously ascending a long but not altogether
unridable ascent, I meet a couple of mounted soldiers;
they obstruct my road, and proceed to deliver themselves
of voluble Tabreez Turkish, by which I understand that
they are the advance guard of a party in which there
is a Ferenghi (the Persian term for an Occidental).
While talking with them I am somewhat taken by surprise
at seeing a lady on horseback and two children in a
kajaveh (mule panier) appear over the slope, accompanied
by about a dozen Persians.
If I am surprised, the lady herself not unnaturally
evinces even greater astonishment at the apparition
of a lone wheelman here on the caravan roads of Persia;
of course we are mutually delighted. With the
assistance of her servant, the lady alights from the
saddle and introduces herself as Mrs. E—,
the wife of one of the Persian missionaries; her husband
has lately returned home, and she is on the way to
join him. The Persians accompanying her comprise
her own servants, some soldiers procured of the Governor
of Tabreez by the English consul to escort her as far
as the Turkish frontier, and a couple of unattached
travellers keeping with the party for company and
society. A mule driver has charge of pack-mules
carrying boxes containing, among other things, her
husband’s library. During the course of
ten minutes’ conversation the lady informs me
that she is compelled to travel in this manner the
whole distance to Trebizond, owing to the practical
impossibility of passing through Bussian territory