to prevent them opening their eyes. Falconing
is considered the chief out-door sport of the Persian
nobility, but the average Persian is altogether too
indolent for out-door sport, and the keeping of falcons
is fashionable, because regarded as a sign of rank
and nobility rather than for sport. In the morning
the Pasha Khan is wonderfully agreeable, and appears
anxious to atone as far as possible for the little
incivility of yesterday evening, and to remove any
unfavorable impressions I may perchance entertain of
him on that account before I leave. His two sons
and a couple of soldiers accompany me on horseback
some distance up the valley. The valley is studded
with villages, and at the second one we halt at the
residence of a gentleman named Abbas Koola Khan, and
partake of tea and light refreshments in his garden.
Here I learn that the Pasha Khan has carried his
good intentions to the extent of having made arrangements
to provide me armed escort from point to point; how
far ahead this well-meaning arrangement is to extend
I am unable to understand; neither do I care to find
out, being already pretty well convinced that the escort
will prove an insufferable nuisance to be gotten rid
of at the first favorable opportunity. Abbas
Koola Khan now joins the company until we arrive at
the summit of a knoll commanding an extensive view
of my road ahead so they can stand and watch me when
they all bid me farewell save the soldier who is to
accompany me further on. As we shake hands, the
young man whom I pushed into the irrigating ditch,
points to a similar receptacle near by and shakes
his head with amusing solemnity; whether this is expressive
of his sorrow that I should have pushed him in, or
that he should have annoyed me to the extent of having
deserved it, I cannot say; probably the latter.
My escort, though a soldier, is dressed but little
different from the better-class villagers; he is an
almond-eyed individual, with more of the Tartar cast
of countenance than the Persian. Besides the
short Persian sword, he is armed with a Martini Henry
rifle of the 1862 pattern; numbers of these rifles
having found their way into the hands of Turks, Koords
and Persians, since the RussoTurkish war. My
predictions concerning his turning out an insupportable
nuisance are not suffered to remain long unverified,
for he appears to consider it his chief duty to gallop
ahead and notify the villagers of my approach, and
to work them up to the highest expectations concerning
my marvellous appearance. The result of all this
is a swelling of his own importance at having so wonderful
a person under his protection, and my own transformation
from an unostentatious traveller to something akin
to a free circus for crowds of barelegged ryots.
I soon discover that, with characteristic Persian
truthfulness, he has likewise been spreading the interesting
report that I am journeying in this extraordinary
manner to carry a message from the “Ingilis
Shah " to the “Shah in Shah of Iran " (the Persians