At three in the afternoon I roll into Terrace, a small Mormon town.  Here a rather tough-looking citizen, noticing that my garments are damp, suggests that ’cycling must be hard work to make a person perspire like that in this dry climate.  At the Matlin section-house I find accommodation for the night with a whole-souled section-house foreman, who is keeping bachelor’s hall temporarily, as his wife is away on a visit at Ogden. >From this house, which is situated on the table-land of the Bed Dome Mountains, can be obtained a more comprehensive view of the Great American Desert than when we last beheld it.  It has all the appearance of being the dry bed of an ancient salt lake or inland sea.  A broad, level plain of white alkali, which is easily mistaken in the dim distance for smooth, still water, stretches away like a dead, motionless sea as far as human vision can penetrate, until lost in the haze; while, here and there, isolated rocks lift their rugged heads above the dreary level, like islets out of the sea.  It is said there are many evidences that go to prove this desert to have once been covered by the waters of the great inland sea that still, in places, laves its eastern borders with its briny flood.  I am informed there are many miles of smooth, hard, salt-flats, over which a ’cycler could skim like a bird; but I scarcely think enough of bird-like skimming to go searching for it on the American Desert.  A few miles east of Matlin the road leads over a spur of the Red Dome Range, from whence I obtain my first view of the Great Salt Lake, and soon I am enjoying a long-anticipated bath in its briny waters.  It is disagreeably cold, but otherwise an enjoyable bath.  One can scarce sink beneath the surface, so strongly is the water impregnated with salt.  For dinner, I reach Kelton, a town that formerly prospered as the point from which vast quantities of freight were shipped to Idaho.  Scores of huge freight-wagons are now bunched up in the corrals, having outlived their usefulness since the innovation from mules and “overland ships " to locomotives on the Utah Northern Railway.  Empty stores and a general air of vanished prosperity are the main features of Kelton to-day; and the inhabitants seem to reflect in their persons the aspect of the town; most of them being freighters, who, finding their occupation gone, hang listlessly around, as though conscious of being fit for nothing else. >From Kelton I follow the lake shore, and at six in the afternoon arrive at the salt-works, near Monument Station, and apply for accommodation, which is readily given.  Here is erected a wind-mill, which pumps the water from the lake into shallow reservoirs, where it evaporates and leaves a layer of coarse salt on the bottom.  These people drink water that is disagreeably brackish and unsatisfactory to one unaccustomed to it, but which they say has become more acceptable to them, from habitual use, than purely fresh water.  This spot, is the healthiest and