him and vanished round a bend. The kahvay-jee
now approaches me, puffing his cheeks out like a penny
balloon and jerking his thumb in the direction of the
street door. Seeing that I don’t quite
comprehend the meaning of this mysterious facial contortion,
he whispers confidentially aside, “pasha,”
and again goes through the highly interesting performance
of puffing out his cheeks and winking in a knowing
manner; he then says-also confidentially and aside
— “lira,” winking even more significantly
than before. By all this theatrical by-play,
the kahvay-jee means that the pasha — a man of
extraordinary social, political, and, above all, financial
importance — has expressed a wish to see the
bicycle, and is now outside; and the kahvay-jee, with
many significant winks and mysterious hints of " lira,”
advises me to take the machine outside and ride it
for the pasha’s special benefit. A portion
of the street near by is " ridable under difficulties;
" so I conclude to act on the kahvay-jee’s suggestion,
simply to see what comes of it. Nothing particular
comes of it, whereupon the kahvay-jee and his patrons
all express themselves as disgusted beyond measure
because the Pasha failed-to give me a present.
Shortly after this I find myself hobnobbing with
a small company of ex-Mecca pilgrims, holy personages
with huge green turbans and flowing gowns; one of them
is evidently very holy indeed, almost too holy for
human associations one would imagine, for in addition
to his green turban he wears a broad green kammer bund
and a green undergarment; he is in fact very green
indeed. Then a crazy person pushes his way forward
and wants me to cure him of his mental infirmity;
at all events I cannot imagine what else he wants;
the man is crazy as a loon, he cannot even give utterance
to his own mother-tongue, but tries to express himself
in a series of disjointed grunts beside which the
soul-harrowing efforts of a broken-winded donkey are
quite melodious. Someone has probably told him
that I am a hakim, or a wonderful person on general
principles, and the fellow is sufficiently conscious
of his own condition to come forward and endeavor to
grunt himself into my favorable consideration.
Later in the evening a couple of young Turkish dandies
come round to the khan and favor me with a serenade;
one of them twangs a doleful melody on a small stringed
instrument, something like the Slavonian tamborica,
and the other one sings a doleful, melancholy song
(nearly all songs and tunes in Mohammedan countries
seem doleful and melancholy); afterwards an Arab camel-driver
joins in with a dance, and furnishes some genuine
amusement with his hip-play and bodily contortions;
this would scarcely be considered dancing from our
point of view, but it is according to the ideas of
the East. The dandies are distinguishable from
the common run of Turkish bipeds, like the same species
in other countries, by the fearful and wonderful cut
of their garments. The Turkish dandy wears a