pall of night descends, and I am gathered into the
arms of Morpheus. Toward morning it grows chilly,
and I am but fitfully dozing in the early gray, when
I am awakened by the bleating and the pattering feet
of a small sea of Angora goats. Starting up,
I discover that I am at that moment the mysterious
and interesting subject of conversation between four
goatherds, who have apparently been quietly surveying
my sleeping form for some minutes. Like our covetous
friends beyond the Kara Su Pass, these early morning
acquaintances are unlovely representatives of their
profession; their sword-blades are half naked, the
scabbards being rudely fashioned out of two sections
of wood, roughly shaped to the blade, and bound together
at top and bottom with twine; in addition to which
are bell-mouthed pistols, half the size of a Queen
Bess blunderbuss. This villainous-looking quartette
does not make “a very reassuring picture in
the foreground of one’s waking moments, but
they are probably the most harmless mortals imaginable;
anyhow, after seeing me astir, they pass onl with
their flocks and herds without even submitting me
to the customary catechizing. The morning light
reveals in my surroundings a most charming little
valley, about half a mile wide, walled in on the south
by towering mountains covered with a forest of pine
and cedar, and on the north by low, brush-covered hills;
a small brook dances along the middle, and thin pasturage
and scattered clumps of willow fringe the stream.
Three miles down the valley I arrive at a roadside
khan, where I obtain some hard bread that requires
soaking in water to make it eatable, and some wormy
raisins; and from this choice assortment I attempt
to fill the aching void of a ravenous appetite; with
what success I leave to the reader’s imagination.
Here the khan-jee and another man deliver themselves
of one of. those strange requests peculiar to the
Asiatic Turk. They pool the contents of their
respective treasuries, making in all perhaps, three
medjedis, and, with the simplicity of children whose
minds have not yet dawned upon the crooked ways of
a wicked world, they offer me the money in exchange
for my Whitehouse leather case with its contents.
They have not the remotest idea of what the case
contains; but their inquisitiveness apparently overcomes
all other considerations. Perhaps, however,
their seemingly innocent way of offering me the money
may be their own peculiar deep scheme of inducing
me to reveal the nature of its contents. For
a short distance down the valley I find road that
is generally ridable, when it contracts to a mere
ravine, and the only road is the bowlder strewn bed
of the stream, which is now nearly dry, but in the
spring is evidently a raging torrent. An hour
of this delectable exercise, and I emerge into a region
of undulating hills, among which are scattered wheat-fields
and clusters of mud-hovels which it would be a stretch
of courtesy to term villages. Here the poverty