streams, wheat-fields, and irrigating ditches, among
which several trails, leading from Tereklu to numerous
villages scattered among the mountains and neighboring
small valleys, make it quite difficult to keep the
proper road. Once I wander off my proper course
for several miles; finding out my mistake I determine
upon regaining the Torbali trail by a short cut across
the stubble-fields and uncultivated knolls of scrub
oak. This brings me into an acquaintanceship
with the shepherds and husbandmen, and the ways of
their savage dogs, that proves more lively than agreeable.
Here and there I find primitive threshing-floors;
they are simply spots of level ground selected in a
central position and made smooth and hard by the combined
labors of the several owners of the adjoining fields,
who use them in common. Rain in harvest is very
unusual; therefore the trouble and expense of covering
them is considered unnecessary. At each of these
threshing-centres I find a merry gathering of villagers,
some threshing out the grain, others winnowing it by
tossing it aloft with wooden, flat-pronged forks;
the wind blows the lighter chaff aside, while the
grain falls back into the heap. When the soil
is sandy, the grain is washed in a neighboring stream
to take out most of the grit, and then spread out
on sheets, in the sun to dry before being finally
stored away in the granaries. The threshing is
done chiefly by the boys and women, who ride on the
same kind of broad sleigh-runner-shaped boards described
in European Turkey.
The sight of my approaching figure is, of course,
the signal for a general suspension of operations,
and a wondering as to what sort of being I am.
If I am riding along some well-worn by-trail, the women
and younger people invariably betray their apprehensions
of my unusual appearance, and seldom fail to exhibit
a disposition to flee at my approach, but the conduct
of their dogs causes me not a little annoyance.
They have a noble breed of canines throughout the
Angora goat country — fine animals, as large
as Newfoundlands, with a good deal the appearance of
the mastiff; and they display their hostility to my
intrusion by making straight at me, evidently considering
me fair game. These dogs are invaluable friends,
but as enemies and assailants they are not exactly
calculated to win a ’cycler’s esteem.
In my unusual appearance they see a strange, undefinable
enemy bearing down toward their friends and owners,
arid, like good, faithful dogs, they hesitate not
to commence the attack; sometimes there is a man among
the threshers and winnowers who retains presence of
mind enough to notice the dogs sallying forth to attack
me, and to think of calling them back; but oftener
I have to defend myself as best I can, while the gaping
crowd, too dumfounded and overcome at my unaccountable
appearance to think of anything else, simply stare
as though expecting to see me sail up into space out
of harm’s way, or perform some other miraculous