silk pocket-handkerchief to turn the leaves.
The Stamboul Bazaar well deserves its renown, since
there is nothing else of its kind in the whole world
to compare with it. Its labyrinth of little stalls
and shops if joined together in one straight line
would extend for miles; and a whole day might be spent
quite profitably in wandering around, watching the
busy scenes of bargaining and manufacturing.
Here, in this bewildering maze of buying and selling,
the peculiar life of the Orient can be seen to perfection;
the “mysterious veiled lady” of the East
is seen thronging the narrow traffic-ways and seated
in every stall; water-venders and venders of carpooses
(water-melons) and a score of different eatables are
meandering through. Here, if your guide be an
honest fellow, he can pilot you into stuffy little
holes full of antique articles of every description,
where genuine bargains can be picked up; or, if he
be dishonest, and in league with equally dishonest
tricksters, whose places are antiquaries only in name,
he can lead you where everything is basest imitation.
In the former case, if anything is purchased he comes
in for a small and not undeserved commission from
the shopkeeper, and in the latter for perhaps as much
as thirty per cent. I am told that one of these
guides, when escorting a party of tourists with plenty
of money to spend and no knowledge whatever of the
real value or genuineness of antique articles, often
makes as much as ten or fifteen pounds sterling a day
commission.
On the way from the Bazaar we call at the Pigeon Mosque,
so called on account of being the resort of thousands
of pigeons, that have become quite tame from being
constantly fed by visitors and surrounded by human
beings. A woman has charge of a store of seeds
and grain, and visitors purchase a handful for ten
paras and throw to the pigeons, who flock around fearlessly
in the general scramble for the food. At any
hour of the day Mussulman ladies may be seen here
feeding the pigeons for the amusement of their children.
From the Pigeon Mosque we ascend the Saraka Tower,
the great watch-tower of Stamboul, from the summit
of which the news of a fire in any part of the city
is signalled, by suspending huge frame-work balls
covered with canvas from the ends of projecting poles
in the day, and lights at night. Constant watch
and ward is kept over the city below by men snugly
housed in quarters near the summit, who, in addition
to their duties as watchmen, turn an honest cherik
occasionally by supplying cups of coffee to Visitors.
No fairer site ever greeted human vision than the
prospect from the Tower of Saraka. Stamboul,
Galata, Pera, and Scutari, with every suburban village
and resort for many a mile around, can be seen to perfection
from the commanding height of Saraka Tower. The
guide can here point out every building of interest
in Stamboul-the broad area of roof beneath which the
busy scenes of Stamboul Bazaar are enacted from day