of the carrying business of the city is done by hamals,
a class of sturdy-limbed men, who, I am told, are mostly
Armenians. They wear a sort of pack-saddle, and
carry loads the mere sight of which makes the average
Westerner groan. For carrying such trifles as
crates and hogsheads of crockery and glass-ware, and
puncheons of rum, four hamals join strength at the
ends of two stout poles. Scarcely less marvellous
than the weights they carry is the apparent ease with
which they balance tremendous loads, piled high up
above them, it being no infrequent sight to see a
stalwart hamal with a veritable Saratoga trunk, for
size, on his back, with several smaller trunks and
valises piled above it, making his way down Step Street,
which is as much as many pedestrians can do to descend
without carrying anything. One of these hamals,
meandering along the street with six or seven hundred
pounds of merchandise on his back, has the legal right
— to say nothing of the evident moral right
— to knock over any unloaded citizen who too
tardily yields the way. From observations made
on the spot, one cannot help thinking that there is
no law in any country to be compared to this one, for
simon-pure justice between man and man. These
are most assuredly the strongest-backed and hardest
working men I have seen anywhere. They are remarkably
trustworthy and sure-footed, and their chief ambition,
I am told, is to save sufficient money to return to
the mountains and valleys of their native Armenia,
where most of them have wives patiently awaiting their
coming, and purchase a piece of land upon which to
spend their declining years in ease and independence.
Far different is the daily lot of another habitue
of the streets of this busy capital — large,
pugnacious-looking rams, that occupy pretty much the
same position in Turkish sporting circles that thoroughbred
bull-dogs do in England, being kept by young Turks
solely on account of their combative propensities
and the facilities thereby afforded for gambling on
the prowess of their favorite animals. At all
hours of the day and evening the Constantinople sport
may be met on the streets leading his woolly pet tenderly
with a string, often carrying something in his hand
to coax the ram along. The wool of these animals
is frequently clipped to give them a fanciful aspect,
the favorite clip being to produce a lion-like appearance,
and they are always carefully guarded against the
fell influence of the “evil eye” by a circlet
of blue beads and pendent charms suspended from the
neck. This latter precautionary measure is not
confined to these hard-headed contestants for the championship
of Galata, Pera, and Stamboul, however, but grace
the necks of a goodly proportion of all animals met
on the streets, notably the saddle-ponies, whose services
are offered on certain streetcorners to the public.