merchants dot the verdure-clad slopes. Two white
marble kiosks of the Sultan are pointed out.
The old castles of Europe and Asia face each other
on opposite sides of the narrow channel. They
were famous fortresses in their day, but, save as
interesting relics of a bygone age, they are no longer
of any use. At Therapia are the summer residences
of the different ambassadors, the English and French
the most conspicuous. The extensive grounds
of the former are most beautifully terraced, and evidently
fit for the residence of royalty itself. Happy
indeed is the Constantinopolitan whose income commands
a summer villa in Therapia, or at any of the many
desirable locations in plain view within this earthly
paradise of blue waves and sunny slopes, and a yacht
in which to wing his flight whenever and wherever
fancy bids him go. In the glitter and glare
of the mid-day sun the scene along the Bosphorus is
lovely, yet its loveliness is plainly of the earth;
but as we return cityward in the eventide the dusky
shadows of the gloaming settle over everything.
As we gradually approach, the city seems half hidden
behind a vaporous veil, as though, in imitation of
thousands of its fair occupants, it were hiding its
comeliness behind the yashmak; the scores of tapering
minarets, and the towers, and the masts of the crowded
shipping of all nations rise above the mist, and line
with delicate tracery the western sky, already painted
in richest colors by the setting sun. On Saturday
morning, July 18th, the sound of martial music announces
the arrival of the soldiers from Stamboul, to guard
the streets through which the Sultan will pass on
his way to a certain mosque to perform some ceremony
in connection with the feast just over. At the
designated place I find the streets already lined
with Circassian cavalry and Ethiopian zouaves; the
latter in red and blue zouave costumes and immense
turbans. Mounted gendarmes are driving civilians
about, first in one direction and then in another,
to try and get the streets cleared, occasionally fetching
some unlucky wight in the threadbare shirt of the Galata
plebe a stinging cut across the shoulders with short
raw-hide whips — a glaring injustice that elicits
not the slightest adverse criticism from the spectators,
and nothing but silent contortions of face and body
from the individual receiving the attention.
I finally obtain a good place, where nothing but
an open plank fence and a narrow plot of ground thinly
set with shrubbery intervenes between me and the street
leading from the palace. In a few minutes the
approach of the Sultan is announced by the appearance
of half a dozen Circassian outriders, who dash wildly
down the streets, one behind the other, mounted on
splendid dapple-gray chargers; then come four close
carriages, containing the Sultan’s mother and
leading ladies of the imperial harem, and a minute
later appears a mounted guard, two abreast, keen-eyed
fellows, riding slowly, and critically eyeing everybody