toward the bridge which connects Stamboul with Galata
and Pera. Even here my ears are assailed with
the eternal importunities to “bin! bin!”
the officers collecting the bridge-toll even joining
in the request. To accommodate them I mount,
and ride part way across the bridge, and at 9 o’clock
on July 2d, just two calendar months from the start
at Liverpool, I am eating my breakfast in a Constantinople
restaurant. I am not long in finding English-speaking
friends, to whom my journey across the two continents
is not unknown, and who kindly direct me to the Chamber
of Commerce Hotel, Eue Omar, Galata, a home-like establishment,
kept by an English lady. I have been purposing
of late to remain in Constantinople during the heated
term of July and August, thinking to shape my course
southward through Asia Minor and down the Euphrates
Valley to Bagdad, and by taking a south-easterly direction
as far as circumstances would permit into India, keep
pace with the seasons, thus avoiding the necessity
of remaining over anywhere for the winter. At
the same time I have been reckoning upon meeting Englishmen
in Constantinople who, having travelled extensively
in Asia, could further enlighten me regarding the
best route to India. As I house my bicycle and
am shown to my room I take a retrospective glance across
Europe and America, and feel almost as if I have arrived
at the half-way house of my journey. The distance
from Liverpool to Constantinople is fully 2,500 miles,
which brings the wheeling distance from San Francisco
up to something over 6,000. So far as the, distance
wheeled and to be wheeled is concerned, it is not
far from half-way; but the real difficulties of the
journey are still ahead, although I scarcely anticipate
any that time and perseverance will not overcome.
My tour across Europe has been, on the whole, a delightful
journey, and, although my linguistic shortcomings
have made it rather awkward in interior places where
no English-speaking person was to be found, I always
managed to make myself understood sufficiently to
get along. In the interior of Turkey a knowledge
of French has been considered indispensable to a traveller:
but, although a full knowledge of that language would
have made matters much smoother by enabling me to
converse with officials and others, I have nevertheless
come through all right without it; and there have doubtless
been occasions when my ignorance has saved me from
a certain amount of bother with the gendarmerie, who,
above all things, dislike to exercise their thinking
apparatus. A Turkish official is far less indisposed
to act than he is to think; his mental faculties work
sluggishly, but his actions are governed largely by
the impulse of the moment.