These natives would not come to visit us.  The small marsupial wallaby, which I mentioned just now, exists throughout the whole of these deserts; they live entirely without water, as do many small birds we occasionally see where there is a patch of timber.  The wallabies hide during the day amongst the spinifex bushes, and feed, like other rodents, on their roots at night.  Another way of getting some of these wallabies was by knocking them over, blackfellow fashion, with a short stick, when startled from their hiding-places.  Tommy used to work very hard at this game, and we usually got one a day for food for our little dogs.  They are exceedingly good eating, being very like rabbits in size and taste.  We remained at this little oasis, I suppose I may call it—­at least it was so to us, though I should not like to return to it with any expectation of getting water again, for when we left, the water had ceased to drain in, and there were only a few pints of thick muddy fluid left in the tank at the end of our three days’ rest.  The place might well be termed the centre of silence and solitude; despair and desolation are the only intruders here upon sad solitude’s triumphant reign.  Well may the traveller here desire for more inhabited lands; rather to contend with fierce and warlike men; to live amongst far noisier deaths, or die amid far louder dangers!  I often declare that:—­

   “I’ll to Afric lion haunted,
    Baboons blood I’ll daily quaff;
    And I’ll go a tiger-hunting
    On a thorough-bred giraffe.”

Whenever we had east winds in this region, the weather was cool and agreeable; but when they blow from any other quarter, it becomes much hotter, and the flies return in myriads to annoy us.  Where they get to when an east wind blows, the east wind only knows.

Leaving Buzoe’s Grave, which had proved a godsend to us, with a swarm of eagles, crows, hawks, vultures, and at night wild dogs, eating up her carcase, in four days’ farther travel we neared the spot from the west, where the Alfred and Marie Ranges lie.  The first sight of these ranges from the east, had cost my former horse expedition into this region so dear.  I could not help believing that the guiding hand of a gracious Providence had upon that occasion prevented me from obtaining my heart’s desire to reach them; for had I then done so, I know now, having proved what kind of country lay beyond that, neither I nor any of my former party would ever have returned.  Assuredly there is a Providence that shapes our ends, rough hew them how we will.  These hills were in reality much lower than they appeared to be, when looked at from the east; in fact, they were so low and uninteresting, that I did not investigate them otherwise than with field-glasses.  We passed by the northern end, and though the southern end was a little higher, I could see that there were no watering-places possible other than chance rock receptacles, and of these there were no signs.  At the northern end