and camels, and all other animals indiscriminately.  These wretches would not allow either us or the animals a moment’s respite, from dawn to dusk; they almost ate the poor creatures alive, and kept them in a state of perpetual motion in their hobbles during daylight all the while we were here.  In the daytime it was only by continued use of our hands, in waving a handkerchief or bough, that we kept them partially off ourselves, for with all our efforts to drive them away, we were continually bitten and stung almost to madness.  I have often been troubled by these flies in other parts of Australia, but I never experienced so much pain and annoyance as at this place.  The hideous droning noise which a multitude of these insects make is quite enough to destroy one’s peace, but when their incessant bites are added, existence becomes a burden.

Since we left Youldeh, and there also, the days had been frightfully hot, and the nights close, cloudy, and sultry.  The only currents of air that ever stirred the foliage of the trees in the daytime were like the breath from a furnace, while at night there was hardly any at all.  The 1st of April, the last day we remained here, was the hottest day we had felt.  Life was almost insupportable, and I determined to leave the place upon the morrow.  There had evidently been some rain at this rock lately, as the grass and herbage were green and luxuriant, and the flies so numerous.  It was most fortunate for us, as my subsequent narrative will show, that we had some one to guide us to this spot, which I found by observation lay almost east of Youldeh, and was distant from that depot 110 miles in a straight line.  Old Jimmy knew nothing whatever of the region which lay beyond, and though I endeavoured to get him to ask the old man and his wives where any other waters existed, all the information I could gather from these persons was, that there was a big mountain and no water at it.  The old man at last found enough English to say, “Big fellow Poonta (stones, hills, or mountains) and mucka carpee,” which means no water.  I gave these poor people a little damper and some tea each, and Polly some sugar, when they departed.  Old Jimmy seemed very unwilling to go any farther eastwards, giving me to understand that it was a far better plan to return to Fowler’s Bay, and that he would show me some new watering-places if I would only follow him.  To this, of course, I turned a deaf ear.

The nearest water on the route I desired to travel, was at Sir Thomas Elder’s cattle station, at the Finniss Springs, under the Hermit Hill, distant from this rock about 250 miles in a straight line; but as the mountain to the south-east looked so conspicuous and inviting, I determined to visit it, in spite of what the old black fellow had said about there being no water, though it lay considerably out of the straight road to where I wanted to go.  It looked high and rugged, and I thought to find water in some rock-hole or crevice about it.