The embroidered fool’s cap was supposed to typify
the gibe, and to remind the arrogant priest that a
Brutus, as in the olden time, might be found lurking
in the costume of the fool. However witty or
appropriate the invention, the livery had an immense
success. According to agreement, the nobles who
had dined with the treasurer ordered it for all their
servants. Never did a new dress become so soon
the fashion. The unpopularity of the minister
assisted the quaintness of the device. The fool’s-cap
livery became the rage. Never was such a run
upon the haberdashers, mercers, and tailors, since
Brussels had been a city. All the frieze-cloth
in Brabant was exhausted. All the serge in Flanders
was clipped into monastic cowls. The Duchess at
first laughed with the rest, but the Cardinal took
care that the king should be at once informed upon
the subject. The Regent was, perhaps, not extremely
sorry to see the man ridiculed whom she so cordially
disliked, and, she accepted the careless excuses made
on the subject by Egmont and by Orange without severe
criticism. She wrote to her brother that, although
the gentlemen had been influenced by no evil intention,
she had thought it best to exhort them not to push
the jest too far. Already, however, she found
that two thousand pairs, of sleeves had been made,
and the most she could obtain was that the fools’
caps, or monks’ hoods, should in future be omitted
from the livery. A change was accordingly made
in the costume, at about the time of the cardinal’s
departure.
A bundle of arrows, or in some instances a wheat-sheaf,
was substituted for the cowls. Various interpretations
were placed upon this new emblem. According to
the nobles themselves, it denoted the union of all
their hearts in the King’s service, while their
enemies insinuated that it was obviously a symbol
of conspiracy. The costume thus amended was worn
by the gentlemen themselves, as well as by their servants.
Egmont dined at the Regent’s table, after the
Cardinal’s departure, in a camlet doublet, with
hanging sleeves, and buttons stamped with the bundle
of arrows.
For the present, the Cardinal affected to disapprove
of the fashion only from its rebellious tendency.
The fools’ caps and cowls, he meekly observed
to Philip, were the least part of the offence, for
an injury to himself could be easily forgiven.
The wheat-sheaf and the arrow-bundles, however, were
very vile things, for they betokened and confirmed
the existence of a conspiracy, such as never could
be tolerated by a prince who had any regard for his
own authority.
This incident of the livery occupied the public attention,
and inflamed the universal hatred during the later
months of the minister’s residence in the country.
Meantime the three seigniors had become very impatient
at receiving no answer to their letter. Margaret
of Parma was urging her brother to give them satisfaction,
repeating to him their bitter complaints that their
characters and conduct were the subject of constant