but I don’t approve an idea they are going to
execute, of a fine bridge with statues under a noble
cliff. If they will have a bridge (which by
the way will crowd the scene), it should be composed
of rude fragments, such as the giant of the Peak would
step upon, that he might not be wet-shod. The
expense of the works now carrying on will amount to
forty thousand pounds. A heavy quadrangle of
stables is part of the plan,. is very cumbrous, and
standing higher than the house, is ready to overwhelm
it. The principal front of the house is beautiful,
and executed with the neatness of wrought-plate; the
inside is most sumptuous, but did not please me; the
heathen gods, goddesses, Christian virtues, and allegoric
gentlefolks, are crowded into every room, as if Mrs.
Holman had been in heaven and invited every body she
saw. The great apartment is first; painted ceilings,
inlaid floors, and unpainted wainscots make every room
sombre. The tapestries are fine, but, not fine
enough, and there are few portraits. The chapel
is charming. The great jet d’eau I like,
nor would I remove it; whatever is magnificent of the
kind in the time it was done, I would retain, else
all gardens and houses wear a tiresome resemblance.
I except that absurdity of a cascade tumbling down
marble steps, which reduces the steps to be of no
use at all. I saw Haddon,(96) an abandoned old
castle of the Rutlands, in a romantic situation, but
which never could have composed a tolerable dwelling.
The Duke sent Lord John with me to Hardwicke, where
I was again disappointed; but I will not take relations
from others; they either don’t see for themselves,
or can’t see for me. How I had been promised
that I should be charmed with Hardwicke, and told
that the Devonshires ought to have established there!
never was I less charmed in my life. The house
is not Gothic, but of that betweenity, that intervened
when Gothic declined and Palladian was creeping in—rather,
this is totally naked of either. It has vast
chambers—aye, vast, such as the nobility
of that time delighted in, and did not know how to
furnish. The great apartment is exactly what
it was when the Queen of @Scots was kept there.
Her council-chamber, the council-chamber of a poor
woman, who had only two secretaries, a gentleman usher,
an apothecary, a confessor, and three maids, is so
outrageously spacious, that you would take it for King
David’s, who thought, contrary to all modern
experience, that in the multitude of counsellors there
is wisdom. At the upper end is the state, with
a long table, covered with a sumptuous cloth, embroidered
and embossed with gold, -at least what was gold:
so are all the tables. Round the top of the chamber
runs a monstrous frieze, ten or twelve feet deep,
representing stag-hunting in miserable plastered relief.
The next is her dressing-room, hung with patchwork
on black velvet; then her state bedchamber.
The bed has been rich beyond description, and now
hangs in costly golden tatters. The hangings,