The himation is even simpler than the chiton.  It is merely a generous oblong woolen shawl.  There are innumerable ways of arranging it according to the impulse of the moment; but usually it has to be worn without pins, and that involves wrapping it rather tightly around the body, and keeping one of the hands confined to hold the cloak in place.  That is no drawback, however, to a genteel wearer.  It proclaims to the world that he does not have to work, wearing his hands for a living; therefore he can keep them politely idle.[*] The adjustment of the himation is a work of great art.  A rich man will often have a special slave whose business it is to arrange the hang and the folds before his master moves forth in public; and woe to the careless fellow if the effect fails to display due elegance and dignity!

[*]Workingmen often wore no himation, and had a kind of chiton (an exomis) which was especially arranged to leave them with free use of their arms.

There is a third garment sometimes worn by Athenians.  Young men who wish to appear very active, and genuine travelers, also wear a chlamys, a kind of circular mantle or cape which swings jauntily over their shoulders, and will give good protection in foul weather.

There are almost no other masculine garments.  No shirts (unless the chiton be one), no underwear.  In their costume, as in so many things else, the Athenians exemplify their oft-praised virtue of simplicity.

35.  The Dress of the Women.—­The dress of the women is like that of the men, but differs, of course, in complexity.  They also have a chiton,[*] which is more elaborately made, especially in the arrangement of the blouse; and probably there is involved a certain amount of real sewing[+]; not merely of pinning.

[*]This robe was sometimes known by the Homeric name of peplos.

[+]Probably with almost all Greek garments the main use of the needle was in the embroidery merely, or in the darning of holes and rents.  It was by no means an essential in the real manufacture.

Greater care is needed in the adjustment of the “zone” (girdle), and half sleeves are the rule with women, while full sleeves are not unknown.  A Greek lady again cannot imitate her husband, and appear in public in her chiton only.  A himation, deftly adjusted, is absolutely indispensable whenever she shows herself outside the house.

These feminine garments are all, as a rule, more elaborately embroidered, more adorned with fringes and tassels, than those of the men.  In arranging her dress the Athenian lady is not bound by the rigid precepts of fashion.  Every separate toilette is an opportunity for a thousand little niceties and coquetries which she understands exceedingly well.  If there is the least excuse for an expedition outside the house, her ladyship’s bevy of serving maids will have a serious time of it.  While their mistress cools